Honey Bee Converter problems!

I have recently been making some repro famicom games and imported a few Famicom pirates that I wanted to put inside of an NES shell with a 60-72pin converter. I do not want to use an NES-JOINT but would prefer to stick with a cheaper and easier to obtain converter. I bought two of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adaptor-Converter-Famicom-60-pin-to-72-pin-for-nes-games-Console-Nintendo-System-/221814789191 and was wondering if there is anything I can do to make them work on a Toaster NES without cutting out the lockout chip. They say Honey Bee but I don't think they are the same converter - at least they don't jolt the lockout chip to bypass it.



Any help and info is appreciated!!

Comments

  • Yes, you can. If you install an AVRCICzz-chip inside of the adapter it would become compatible with any Toaster regardless of region (it's the same chip as the one used in the Everdrive). I've done it myself with a couple of adapters and they all work great. If you don't feel like doing it yourself then I could do it for you. PM me and we'll work out the details. :-)
  • Where can I buy the AVRCICzz chips? I didn't see it available on Krikzz site. Can I use an Attiny13A chip instead? PM me if you can help with instructions and stuff!
  • Also... is there no way to just cause a jolt by wiring something simpler up on the connector? I assume the attiny13a would need to be flash. I have a couple of programmers including a GQ-4X but haven't a clue how to flash it
  • An "AVRCICzz-chip" is an ATTiny13A programmed with with the AVRCICzz-firmware. Sorry for the confusion. And yes, it'll need to be programmed. You can use a GQ-4X to program these chips, see this thread:

    http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=149553
  • Looks like there is a spot intended for a CIC chip on the adapter. I'd buy some cheap carts and pull the CICs.
  • I bought a 5pcs set of attiny13A CICs. If I flash and place it on would that be good instead of destroying some cheap carts? I was considering that route but I want to try to avoid it. Also, do you know any way I can wire it up to cause the jolt to the NES to bypass it? Thanks - and thank you for chiming in Lincoln.



    PS- that you so much for the link to Krikzz file! Much appreciated!
  • Spiking the CIC isn't necessarily reliable, but you could open an unlicensed game (cd/wt/camerica) to see how they do it. Usually involves transistors but I haven't investigated more than that.
  • Cool. Well I am going to try using a couple of the Attiny13As on them and if that doesn't work I'll open a copy of some dirt cheap game and test that out. I know the adapters work because the game plays for a second before the light blinks and it restarts. Thanks everyone - will post results when done
  • Later Toaster models are immune to voltage spikes (Nintendo learned their lesson). I recommend using a AVRCICzz. Unless you find donor carts for next-to-nothing, an ATTiny13A will be both cheaper and will work on any NES regardless of region. Sure, the latter may not matter much if it's for your own personal use, but still.
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