Replacement Dogbone controller cord?
in Help Wanted!
I am attempting to refurbish a damaged NES dogbone controller. The controller itself is in excellent shape; unfortunately, the cord is a bit chewed up and doesn't work.
When taking the controller part I noticed a distinct difference between the standard NES controller and the updated "dogbone" controller: the cord of the dogbone controller has a connector on it which plugs into the circuit board, whereas the cord of the regular controller has no connector and the ends of the wires are soldered directly onto the circuit board.
With my limit knowledge in working with electronic components, the best option seemed to be replacing the dogbone controller cord with a new one. Does anyone know of a source where I can get a third party or even OEM replacement cord, with the connector on the end that makes it compatible with the dogbone controller?
Alternatively, I'm sure it's possible to simply detatch the connector from the end of the ruined cord and connect it to the cord from a regular controller.. Has anyone done this and if so could you give a step-by-step including how to firmly attach the wires to the connector?
Your help is appreciated.
Edit: I found some helpful information on an older thread which basically concluded that the Tomee reproduction dogbone's parts fit perfectly into the authentic shell, but there was no mention of the connector on the cord. I have asked about this on the product listing for the Tomee controller on Amazon and will post the findings here.
When taking the controller part I noticed a distinct difference between the standard NES controller and the updated "dogbone" controller: the cord of the dogbone controller has a connector on it which plugs into the circuit board, whereas the cord of the regular controller has no connector and the ends of the wires are soldered directly onto the circuit board.
With my limit knowledge in working with electronic components, the best option seemed to be replacing the dogbone controller cord with a new one. Does anyone know of a source where I can get a third party or even OEM replacement cord, with the connector on the end that makes it compatible with the dogbone controller?
Alternatively, I'm sure it's possible to simply detatch the connector from the end of the ruined cord and connect it to the cord from a regular controller.. Has anyone done this and if so could you give a step-by-step including how to firmly attach the wires to the connector?
Your help is appreciated.
Edit: I found some helpful information on an older thread which basically concluded that the Tomee reproduction dogbone's parts fit perfectly into the authentic shell, but there was no mention of the connector on the cord. I have asked about this on the product listing for the Tomee controller on Amazon and will post the findings here.
Comments
Likely not the cheapest, but the easiest.
Easiest way would be to get a dogbone controller where the controller is ruined and use it for the cord.
Likely not the cheapest, but the easiest.
Not a bad idea but I get the feeling that won't be easy to find.
The connector on the end of the cord shouldn't be hard to find. Seems fairly standard. Not sure what it's called though! If I figure it out on my own I'll be sure to post it here.
I tried removing the damaged section from the cord and splicing each wire together, but with the rudimentary tools available I wasn't able to get the cord working.
I hope this helps your situation.
If you really want to take some time and slight soldering skills, you could get a reproduction controller (they run $5 - $15 depending on where you get it), unsolder the points connected to the wires (make sure the pins are the same) and solder them back. This is something similar to what I did making a controller that could work in the Famicom's 15 pin ext port, but obviously with a different output and pinout. If you would like, I can do a step by step explanation with pictures, just PM me.
I hope this helps your situation.
My mistake, I was not aware that the PCB had a connector, as opposed to the originals which have the wires directly soldered onto the board. Please disregard the previous post.