So crazy thing, I was going through reaching out to guys on eBay selling the LED toppers for $150 - $200, seeing if they would take offers for less. I found that one was a listing in a little town only 20 minutes away from me. Long story short, I offered him cash and I would drive and pick it up today and was able to get him down to $90. Still a little more than I wanted to spend, but I think it's the last thing I needed to get it to where I want it.
So crazy thing, I was going through reaching out to guys on eBay selling the LED toppers for $150 - $200, seeing if they would take offers for less. I found that one was a listing in a little town only 20 minutes away from me. Long story short, I offered him cash and I would drive and pick it up today and was able to get him down to $90. Still a little more than I wanted to spend, but I think it's the last thing I needed to get it to where I want it.
Congrats on the find! The topper really makes the kisok pop.
Well, I started working on my Wii U kiosk. I've replaced the lock with a new one that I have a key for. I've removed the controller wires that were cut by GameStop (but I still kept them) and I installed a new TV. This TV has the same outer dimensions as the original, but it's a much larger screen due to the lack of the bezel. The nice thing about using this TV over the original monitor is that it will be easier to hook up other devices to use the setup as a normal TV in my garage.
I received my Raspberry Pi this week and got it setup. I have't loaded all of the games I want yet, but I have enough to be able to enjoy it.
Next step will be to cover the area below the TV that is open due to the missing bezel. I plan to cover it with a board with some speakers that will be powered by a small amp that I will hide in the cabinet.
The last step will be to make my custom Raspberry Pi case out of an old Nintendo Wii U that I acquired. The Wii U is broken beyond repair, so I will gut it and use the case to house my Raspberry Pi. I'm hoping to incorporate the USB ports, HDMI ports and other connections on the Wii U case with the Pi itself.
It's been a fun project so far. Looking forward to the finished product.
Just a quick note, I think this is being overlooked by a lot of people (including me), The keys for these things are not universal. So the listings on ebay ARE ULTIMATELY USELESS unless they include the original lock. Just thought I should share that bit of info.
Also, to TDIRunner, kickass job with that thing, it looks really good with that TV. How did you mount that monster? I assume you just found brackets to clip it in like the original? Regardless though, congrats on the project, its great to see this thing come to fruition, keep us updated.
Also han2, thanks for sharing that info, I'm going to add that to the google doc catalog that I started. I'm sure that will be useful info to have for future reference.
Pretty straight forward. I bought a mount from Wal-Mart (super cheap too) and attached it to the top cross beam on the kiosk frame. I had to use a few washers as spacers to move the TV outwards a fraction of an inch, but otherwise, the TV could not have fit any better.
Both the TV and mount are meant for a low budget since this is only a project and the kiosk will stay in my garage.
link to TV (was $150 when I bought it, now it's $180, glad I didn't wait any longer)
TV is cheap, but it has a "game mode" and works well with the Raspberry Pi with no noticable lag on Mario platforming games.
Just to help you out dewis, My monitor works fine. Subwoofer, speakers, and the led signs work fine. I also have the security key. I'm only missing the demo discs, console itself, and the controllers.
Just saw this White Topper went up on eBay.> http://www.ebay.com/itm/142290931... I think these are the least common of the two colors. At least it seems like I've seen a lot more black ones. Topper Color might be something to add to the list/table.
I have the white topper on mine, I haven't seen another yet...
Just pull this out of gamestops trash. Missing a lot of the higher value stuff. Here is what I have, which i am looking to sell. The serial # from this one is 1437
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
Here is mine when I got it home. I've cleaned it up some but it still needs a lot of work. It's amazing how dirty these are. I don't think Gamestop even wiped it off one time. Luckily almost all of the grunge is coming off.
They had disconnected the cables and lights, busted the TV and even the rear fan/vent. I've gottrn most of the wires reran and tested to make sure they still work. Still have a lot of work until I'm satisfied though.
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
I have atleast 2 of them but they are the white ones like you have in your picture. Send me a msg if your interested in them.
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
A bit earlier in the thread I posted where to buy new connectors that are a match for those. Ill be wiring mine up sometime this weekend.
I was given a Wii u kiosk from a gamestop and need some help locating an ac adapter for the Lynx box that powers the LCDs. I got in contact with a guy selling the Lynx box and the adapter and the output rating is " OUTPUT:12V -- 5000mA" . My problem is figuring out what size the plug is. anybody have that information? I found this adapter on amazon, should work if the plug fits.
I was given a Wii u kiosk from a gamestop and need some help locating an ac adapter for the Lynx box that powers the LCDs. I got in contact with a guy selling the Lynx box and the adapter and the output rating is " OUTPUT:12V -- 5000mA" . My problem is figuring out what size the plug is. anybody have that information? I found this adapter on amazon, should work if the plug fits.
OK. thanks for the reply. now I am a boat painter so I dont have a clue about electronics so is the fact that the adapter you suggested that fits is 6 amp instead oh the 5 amp that came with the box a problem?
OK. thanks for the reply. now I am a boat painter so I dont have a clue about electronics so is the fact that the adapter you suggested that fits is 6 amp instead oh the 5 amp that came with the box a problem?
Not at all.
The lynx box has an internal fuse just in case. You can go up in amps because thats just how much power is available. You shoudnt go up in volts but you can go down to make the LEDs dimmer. My unit is going in a dark arcade so I will be using 9v instead of 12v. I am much happier with them a bit dimmer.
OK. thanks for the reply. now I am a boat painter so I dont have a clue about electronics so is the fact that the adapter you suggested that fits is 6 amp instead oh the 5 amp that came with the box a problem?
Not at all.
The lynx box has an internal fuse just in case. You can go up in amps because thats just how much power is available. You shoudnt go up in volts but you can go down to make the LEDs dimmer. My unit is going in a dark arcade so I will be using 9v instead of 12v. I am much happier with them a bit dimmer.
OR if you really want to be ambitous, hook a potentiometer to the 12V so that way you can make the lights as bright or dim as you want
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
A bit earlier in the thread I posted where to buy new connectors that are a match for those. Ill be wiring mine up sometime this weekend.
I actually have the original connector but can't bend the connectors back so the wires don't pull out again. How would the connectors work so they don't pull out?
Hey all, I just quickly compiled a complete catelog of parts with a breif description of the parts. It's incomplete as my plan was to add pictures to show what they looked like. Feel free to use it, its an excell spreadsheet but I think open office (office libre) can open and edit these things. If there are any errors or parts missing, feel free to alert me so I can fix it. My eventual plan is to, like I said, add pictures but this can be a neat little checklist to make sure you have all the parts.
Just a quick note, NA is giving me an error while trying to upload this, so I just threw it on google drive for you to view/download. Sorry for this issue. (made a few fixes since original upload)
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
I pried the hook up just enough to get it over the metal lip by inserting a knife underneath it between the door and the casing, the used a mallet to hit the handle of the knife upward. Not refined, advise using something other than a knife, and insure if it has damaged the lock or not.
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
I went in from the back. If you remove the fan off the back (4 philips screws), you can reach in with your hand and remove the nut holding the latch on, and then you have to remove the larger nut holding the actual lock in. Unfortuntately, just removing the latch isn't enough because there isn't enough room to actually get the latch off. Once you remove those two nuts, you can slide the entire lock out and, if you did it correctly, you shouldn't have damaged anything.
I've heard many people suggest trying to drill out the lock. While this may work in theory, there is a small piece of metal where the key goes in. This is hardened steel and is designed to spin around which will make drilling extremely difficult and time consuming even if you have the right type of drill bit. I would suggest going in the back through the fan to avoid damage.
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
I went in from the back. If you remove the fan off the back (4 philips screws), you can reach in with your hand and remove the nut holding the latch on, and then you have to remove the larger nut holding the actual lock in. Unfortuntately, just removing the latch isn't enough because there isn't enough room to actually get the latch off. Once you remove those two nuts, you can slide the entire lock out and, if you did it correctly, you shouldn't have damaged anything.
I've heard many people suggest trying to drill out the lock. While this may work in theory, there is a small piece of metal where the key goes in. This is hardened steel and is designed to spin around which will make drilling extremely difficult and time consuming even if you have the right type of drill bit. I would suggest going in the back through the fan to avoid damage.
Thank's for the advice. I undid the lock after undoing the bottom vent and locating the wrench. No drill nessessary. It really sucks because all the inside components are missing including the monitor.
The owner would like to remain anonymous at this point so I am posting on his behalf.
Comments
So crazy thing, I was going through reaching out to guys on eBay selling the LED toppers for $150 - $200, seeing if they would take offers for less. I found that one was a listing in a little town only 20 minutes away from me. Long story short, I offered him cash and I would drive and pick it up today and was able to get him down to $90. Still a little more than I wanted to spend, but I think it's the last thing I needed to get it to where I want it.
Congrats on the find! The topper really makes the kisok pop.
I am using it with pins p/n 732-4890-ND because i am using 16 awg wire. If you have thinner wire (22-28 AWG) you can use p/n 732-4891-ND instead.
I received my Raspberry Pi this week and got it setup. I have't loaded all of the games I want yet, but I have enough to be able to enjoy it.
Next step will be to cover the area below the TV that is open due to the missing bezel. I plan to cover it with a board with some speakers that will be powered by a small amp that I will hide in the cabinet.
The last step will be to make my custom Raspberry Pi case out of an old Nintendo Wii U that I acquired. The Wii U is broken beyond repair, so I will gut it and use the case to house my Raspberry Pi. I'm hoping to incorporate the USB ports, HDMI ports and other connections on the Wii U case with the Pi itself.
It's been a fun project so far. Looking forward to the finished product.
Also, to TDIRunner, kickass job with that thing, it looks really good with that TV. How did you mount that monster? I assume you just found brackets to clip it in like the original? Regardless though, congrats on the project, its great to see this thing come to fruition, keep us updated.
Also han2, thanks for sharing that info, I'm going to add that to the google doc catalog that I started. I'm sure that will be useful info to have for future reference.
How did you mount that monster?
Pretty straight forward. I bought a mount from Wal-Mart (super cheap too) and attached it to the top cross beam on the kiosk frame. I had to use a few washers as spacers to move the TV outwards a fraction of an inch, but otherwise, the TV could not have fit any better.
Both the TV and mount are meant for a low budget since this is only a project and the kiosk will stay in my garage.
link to TV (was $150 when I bought it, now it's $180, glad I didn't wait any longer)
TV is cheap, but it has a "game mode" and works well with the Raspberry Pi with no noticable lag on Mario platforming games.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-39-class-38-5-diag--led-720p-hdtv-black/4807511.p?skuId=4807511
link to mount ($10 and comes with HDMI cord)
I would not recommend this mount on a normal wall, but with it bolted to the kiosk, it's actually the perfect size (and price)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/45162252
Just saw this White Topper went up on eBay.> http://www.ebay.com/itm/142290931... I think these are the least common of the two colors. At least it seems like I've seen a lot more black ones. Topper Color might be something to add to the list/table.
I have the white topper on mine, I haven't seen another yet...
They had disconnected the cables and lights, busted the TV and even the rear fan/vent. I've gottrn most of the wires reran and tested to make sure they still work. Still have a lot of work until I'm satisfied though.
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
I have atleast 2 of them but they are the white ones like you have in your picture. Send me a msg if your interested in them.
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
A bit earlier in the thread I posted where to buy new connectors that are a match for those. Ill be wiring mine up sometime this weekend.
https://www.amazon.com/HISVISION-100V-240V-Supply-Fits-Analog-Security/dp/B01MYXTA6N/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488047656&sr=8-1&keywords=OUTPUT:12V+--+5000mA
I was given a Wii u kiosk from a gamestop and need some help locating an ac adapter for the Lynx box that powers the LCDs. I got in contact with a guy selling the Lynx box and the adapter and the output rating is " OUTPUT:12V -- 5000mA" . My problem is figuring out what size the plug is. anybody have that information? I found this adapter on amazon, should work if the plug fits.
https://www.amazon.com/HISVISION-...
Not sure about that one but I know for a fact this one fits.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZZY28M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
OK. thanks for the reply. now I am a boat painter so I dont have a clue about electronics so is the fact that the adapter you suggested that fits is 6 amp instead oh the 5 amp that came with the box a problem?
Not at all.
The lynx box has an internal fuse just in case. You can go up in amps because thats just how much power is available. You shoudnt go up in volts but you can go down to make the LEDs dimmer. My unit is going in a dark arcade so I will be using 9v instead of 12v. I am much happier with them a bit dimmer.
OK. thanks for the reply. now I am a boat painter so I dont have a clue about electronics so is the fact that the adapter you suggested that fits is 6 amp instead oh the 5 amp that came with the box a problem?
Not at all.
The lynx box has an internal fuse just in case. You can go up in amps because thats just how much power is available. You shoudnt go up in volts but you can go down to make the LEDs dimmer. My unit is going in a dark arcade so I will be using 9v instead of 12v. I am much happier with them a bit dimmer.
OR if you really want to be ambitous, hook a potentiometer to the 12V so that way you can make the lights as bright or dim as you want
Im looking for a clear plastic dome if anyone is parting out their kiosk.
Anyone have any of the light cables that plug into the Lynx box? I need the connector end of one. Preferably the black one, but any will work. Here is a pic of one of the white ones.
A bit earlier in the thread I posted where to buy new connectors that are a match for those. Ill be wiring mine up sometime this weekend.
I actually have the original connector but can't bend the connectors back so the wires don't pull out again. How would the connectors work so they don't pull out?
Hey all, I just quickly compiled a complete catelog of parts with a breif description of the parts. It's incomplete as my plan was to add pictures to show what they looked like. Feel free to use it, its an excell spreadsheet but I think open office (office libre) can open and edit these things. If there are any errors or parts missing, feel free to alert me so I can fix it. My eventual plan is to, like I said, add pictures but this can be a neat little checklist to make sure you have all the parts.
Just a quick note, NA is giving me an error while trying to upload this, so I just threw it on google drive for you to view/download. Sorry for this issue. (made a few fixes since original upload)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=...
Nice document!
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
I pried the hook up just enough to get it over the metal lip by inserting a knife underneath it between the door and the casing, the used a mallet to hit the handle of the knife upward. Not refined, advise using something other than a knife, and insure if it has damaged the lock or not.
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
I went in from the back. If you remove the fan off the back (4 philips screws), you can reach in with your hand and remove the nut holding the latch on, and then you have to remove the larger nut holding the actual lock in. Unfortuntately, just removing the latch isn't enough because there isn't enough room to actually get the latch off. Once you remove those two nuts, you can slide the entire lock out and, if you did it correctly, you shouldn't have damaged anything.
I've heard many people suggest trying to drill out the lock. While this may work in theory, there is a small piece of metal where the key goes in. This is hardened steel and is designed to spin around which will make drilling extremely difficult and time consuming even if you have the right type of drill bit. I would suggest going in the back through the fan to avoid damage.
Hey all, does anyone know how to pick one of these thing's locks? My friend got one and we need to unlock it. But we don't wanna drill out the lock if we don't have to.
I went in from the back. If you remove the fan off the back (4 philips screws), you can reach in with your hand and remove the nut holding the latch on, and then you have to remove the larger nut holding the actual lock in. Unfortuntately, just removing the latch isn't enough because there isn't enough room to actually get the latch off. Once you remove those two nuts, you can slide the entire lock out and, if you did it correctly, you shouldn't have damaged anything.
I've heard many people suggest trying to drill out the lock. While this may work in theory, there is a small piece of metal where the key goes in. This is hardened steel and is designed to spin around which will make drilling extremely difficult and time consuming even if you have the right type of drill bit. I would suggest going in the back through the fan to avoid damage.
Thank's for the advice. I undid the lock after undoing the bottom vent and locating the wrench. No drill nessessary. It really sucks because all the inside components are missing including the monitor.
The owner would like to remain anonymous at this point so I am posting on his behalf.
Anonymous/anonymous/765/WUPM128P-WU/N/Y/N/N/Y/Y/N/N/Y/N/N/N