I picked up a subwoofer at goodwill that fits really well for the price of $3. Sounds pretty good wired up temporarily. Working on running wires nicely tonight. Ill have some photos once I have it the way I want it.
Anyone have suggestions/info on replacements for the rear fan and the small subwoofer? If possible I'd love to get exact parts.
The rear fan is a 120V AC input case fan (check the link below). The speaker itself a 10 Watt speaker with a 6 Ohm impedence, not sure on the size though.
Anyone have suggestions/info on replacements for the rear fan and the small subwoofer? If possible I'd love to get exact parts.
The rear fan is a 120V AC input case fan (check the link below). The speaker itself a 10 Watt speaker with a 6 Ohm impedence, not sure on the size though.
Picked this up today, I will post the information for it tomorrow. Posting a pic of it dissembled if anyone can tell me what all is missing so I know what to look for to complete it. I know i need the plastic console cover, LEDs, & sign on top. Also if anyone could tell me what size the bolts to hold the monitor bezel on are those are missing as well. Also it had the 3 pieces in the last pic in it that I have no idea where they go if someone can help out with that as well.
So im done for the evening and here is what ive got.
My Lynx box had a flaky power jack. Here is what is inside for you curious folks. This box is just a power ditribution unit and isnt really needed. If you dont have it in your kiosk I would say dont waste your money on buying one.
Here was my issue. One of the solder joints on the power input had broken, probably when the gamestop employees ripped out all the wires. A touch with a soldering iron and its all fixed.
This is as far as I am getting tonight. I want the lynx box out of the way as once its working I wont be touching it again. I want to maximize the space in the pedestal for a few consoles and an HDMI switch.
So im done for the evening and here is what ive got.
My Lynx box had a flaky power jack. Here is what is inside for you curious folks. This box is just a power ditribution unit and isnt really needed. If you dont have it in your kiosk I would say dont waste your money on buying one.
Here was my issue. One of the solder joints on the power input had broken, probably when the gamestop employees ripped out all the wires. A touch with a soldering iron and its all fixed.
This is as far as I am getting tonight. I want the lynx box out of the way as once its working I wont be touching it again. I want to maximize the space in the pedestal for a few consoles and an HDMI switch.
No, the speakers are not powered. Thats just what its rated for in case you wanna hook an amp to it. No real crossovers basically, the original connector takes in the right audio signal, then hooks up to the speaker along with some output wires that goto the right speaker. Think of it as two different speakers hooked up in parallel.
Also, are those things labeled "f*" fuses? Or are they capacitors? If fuses, that will be the funniest thing because you can literally build your own 12v divider for those who dont have one of these things. Screw ebay, use banana jacks or find the connectors on digikey! Basically, just get some breadboard for power and ground, then add the connetors!
Picked this up today, I will post the information for it tomorrow. Posting a pic of it dissembled if anyone can tell me what all is missing so I know what to look for to complete it. I know i need the plastic console cover, LEDs, & sign on top. Also if anyone could tell me what size the bolts to hold the monitor bezel on are those are missing as well. Also it had the 3 pieces in the last pic in it that I have no idea where they go if someone can help out with that as well.
The two clear things go next to the gamepad mount (they slide right in). They are led diffusers to make the light not as bright. The other peice is for the sign on top. It protects/covers the wire until it goes into the hole where it goes to the lynx box.
No, the speakers are not powered. Thats just what its rated for in case you wanna hook an amp to it. No real crossovers basically, the original connector takes in the right audio signal, then hooks up to the speaker along with some output wires that goto the right speaker. Think of it as two different speakers hooked up in parallel. Also, are those things labeled "f*" fuses? Or are they capacitors? If fuses, that will be the funniest thing because you can literally build your own 12v divider for those who dont have one of these things. Screw ebay, use banana jacks or find the connectors on digikey! Basically, just get some breadboard for power and ground, then add the connetors!
They are polyfuses. Each connector is fused seperately. 1.6A for the ports labeled LED and 1.1A for the ports labeled FAN. This box, while nice if you have the right connectors (digi-key parts 732-4758-ND and 732-4890-ND) is entirely unnecessary if you ask me. Wire up 9v-12v directly and you're done.
No, the speakers are not powered. Thats just what its rated for in case you wanna hook an amp to it. No real crossovers basically, the original connector takes in the right audio signal, then hooks up to the speaker along with some output wires that goto the right speaker. Think of it as two different speakers hooked up in parallel. Also, are those things labeled "f*" fuses? Or are they capacitors? If fuses, that will be the funniest thing because you can literally build your own 12v divider for those who dont have one of these things. Screw ebay, use banana jacks or find the connectors on digikey! Basically, just get some breadboard for power and ground, then add the connetors!
They are polyfuses. Each connector (led strip) is fused seperately. 1.6A for the ports labeled LED and 1.1A for the ports labeled FAN
That's absolutely wonderful. Well, you heard it here folks, the lynx box is just a 12V splitter circuit. You can literally build your own with little to no effort .
Also, thanks for the link, it was a good read on something I didn't know.
That's absolutely wonderful. Well, you heard it here folks, the lynx box is just a 12V splitter circuit. You can literally build your own with little to no effort .
Also, thanks for the link, it was a good read on something I didn't know.
Just a few words for those reading this thread months or years from now ....
Without the lynx box you dont have short protection which is ok if youre careful and dont short something out. =>
It was added so they could use a single 5 amp power supply without scaring the liability lawyers. If someone shorts out one segment (like one of the strips on the back of the unit) that segment could draw whatever current is available, in this case the 5 amps on the stock power supply. Wires would get hot, they would smell or melt, burn out and maybe make a little fire. With the fuse if a segment draws more current than the trip rating of the fuse it will do its thing and cut the power to that segment.
This being said, if I didnt have the box I wouldnt spend money to replace it.
Hey yall. No need to make a user name until now. Realy wanted to help out with the documentation but seems yall have done a jam up job. I have several kiosksto list, and because i do a little traveling for work i get the opertunity to see alot of stores. I will do my best to list all the info and i took a few pics of each one.
Unit no. 1: serial # 4032 M# WUPM128P-WUP N N N N N N N N Y Y N N
Unit no. 2 serial # 696 M# WUPM128P-WUP N N N Y ( Y Y N Y Y Y CI-U MAY "15 & OCT '15
Unit no 3 Missing S# M# WUPM128P-WUP N N N N Y N N Y Y Y N N
Unit no 4 S# 686 M# WUPM128-WUP N N N Y ( Y Y Y Y Y Y N N
Now that that is done........... let me see if i can get these pics uploaded......
Are there any demo console owners here? I have been looking for a thread focusing on the demo wii itself but haven't found one. Can someone point me to one or should we start one?
Are there any demo console owners here? I have been looking for a thread focusing on the demo wii itself but haven't found one. Can someone point me to one or should we start one?
I own one. It's a WIS-001, but I don't know too much about it. I don't have the gamepad for it, so it's quite limited in what it can do. I've had a hard time trying to get a few questions answered about it on here and other forums. Frustrating.
Picked this up today, I will post the information for it tomorrow. Posting a pic of it dissembled if anyone can tell me what all is missing so I know what to look for to complete it. I know i need the plastic console cover, LEDs, & sign on top. Also if anyone could tell me what size the bolts to hold the monitor bezel on are those are missing as well. Also it had the 3 pieces in the last pic in it that I have no idea where they go if someone can help out with that as well.
The two clear things go next to the gamepad mount (they slide right in). They are led diffusers to make the light not as bright. The other peice is for the sign on top. It protects/covers the wire until it goes into the hole where it goes to the lynx box.
I also compiled a fullish list of parts used for reference so you can hopefully determine what is missing. Its just a little spreadsheet being hosted on google drive: https://drive.google.com/open?id=...
Thanks for the list can you post a pic of where those diffusers go I looked it over this morning but didn't see where they went
I just ran into a problem. It seems that now my monitor is stuck in a really high contrast mode? What can I do to fix this? it is in both inputs as the pi has this issue.
Nevermind: Solution - Download AnyMote Smart Remote app for android. plug an ir blaster. set the remote up for element elchs262. click the button to the right of menu on the remote to open menu. on the kiosk, use the volume buttons to scroll to the right, then change the mode from High Brightness to User.
A quick note people, turn the TV off first before you cut the power. That way it doesn't screw things up like this. This is the greatest controller board, so it will do stupid stuff like this... I'm thinking at this point, its no coincidence that these things don't have audio as a result. Maybe if I am lucky, I can fix the audio by playing with the settings...
i will see if i can mak a copy of my key Andy. If i can i will send it to you for free
There's just one problem with that,all the keys are different. I found this out when trying to make a 3d model of one of these things so I can just 3d print it. Also, just by comparing them on ebay, I can clearly see that each of them are different.
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post.  
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post.
Question, what model vizeo did you use that worked, and how did you mount it?
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post.
Question, what model vizeo did you use that worked, and how did you mount it?
There's the model I bought. I wanted to go with the 1080p model even though it's a little more pricey. I was also glad that it was Smart TV enabled but must say I was dissapointed with that side of it. It's a much more limited Smart TV than my newer Sony TV and doesn't have 2 apps available that I was specifically hoping to use.
Mounting it was tricky. How I did it was I laid the bezel face down then placed the TV face down inside the bezel. Then I placed the white metal monitor bracing from the kiosk in it's position. I used a tape measure to center the tv in the hole. This is probably the hardest part. I spent a lot of time trying to get it centered and still didn't get it perfect. Then I used the verticle mounting pieces from a cheap TV Wall Mount that I had bought. They were basically two flat strips of metal with various slots and holes for mounting. I then marked and drilled two holes into the white monitor bracing equidistant from the center and bolted the vertical mounting strips to the bracing. Then I used washers to fill the space between the back of the TV and the mounting strips in order to push the botom of the TV out instead of it hanging at a downward tilt. After I put everything together and had it hanging on the kiosk I had to add a piece of cardboard to push the bottom of the TV out just a little more to close up the space between the bezel and the screen.
Finding where exactly to make the holes is the hardest part. Make sure you have a sharp drill bit too, that metal is pretty hard. I hope this is helpful, I probably should've taken pictures for others wanting to do this too. If I have the back off again sometime I'll try to remember to get some pics.
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post. '
Are there any demo console owners here? I have been looking for a thread focusing on the demo wii itself but haven't found one. Can someone point me to one or should we start one?
I own one. It's a WIS-001, but I don't know too much about it. I don't have the gamepad for it, so it's quite limited in what it can do. I've had a hard time trying to get a few questions answered about it on here and other forums. Frustrating.
I started a Wii U demo console thread so we can pool our efforts in learning about this unit.
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Comments
Anyone have suggestions/info on replacements for the rear fan and the small subwoofer? If possible I'd love to get exact parts.
The rear fan is a 120V AC input case fan (check the link below). The speaker itself a 10 Watt speaker with a 6 Ohm impedence, not sure on the size though.
Fan: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AXIAL-Muffin-Cooling/dp/B009OWVUJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1488159663&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=120mm+AC+fan&psc=1
Anyone have suggestions/info on replacements for the rear fan and the small subwoofer? If possible I'd love to get exact parts.
The rear fan is a 120V AC input case fan (check the link below). The speaker itself a 10 Watt speaker with a 6 Ohm impedence, not sure on the size though.
Fan: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinit...
Is the speaker powered? Is there any kind of crossover or low pass filter?
My Lynx box had a flaky power jack. Here is what is inside for you curious folks. This box is just a power ditribution unit and isnt really needed. If you dont have it in your kiosk I would say dont waste your money on buying one.
Here was my issue. One of the solder joints on the power input had broken, probably when the gamestop employees ripped out all the wires. A touch with a soldering iron and its all fixed.
This is as far as I am getting tonight. I want the lynx box out of the way as once its working I wont be touching it again. I want to maximize the space in the pedestal for a few consoles and an HDMI switch.
So im done for the evening and here is what ive got.
My Lynx box had a flaky power jack. Here is what is inside for you curious folks. This box is just a power ditribution unit and isnt really needed. If you dont have it in your kiosk I would say dont waste your money on buying one.
Here was my issue. One of the solder joints on the power input had broken, probably when the gamestop employees ripped out all the wires. A touch with a soldering iron and its all fixed.
This is as far as I am getting tonight. I want the lynx box out of the way as once its working I wont be touching it again. I want to maximize the space in the pedestal for a few consoles and an HDMI switch.
No, the speakers are not powered. Thats just what its rated for in case you wanna hook an amp to it. No real crossovers basically, the original connector takes in the right audio signal, then hooks up to the speaker along with some output wires that goto the right speaker. Think of it as two different speakers hooked up in parallel.
Also, are those things labeled "f*" fuses? Or are they capacitors? If fuses, that will be the funniest thing because you can literally build your own 12v divider for those who dont have one of these things. Screw ebay, use banana jacks or find the connectors on digikey! Basically, just get some breadboard for power and ground, then add the connetors!
Picked this up today, I will post the information for it tomorrow. Posting a pic of it dissembled if anyone can tell me what all is missing so I know what to look for to complete it. I know i need the plastic console cover, LEDs, & sign on top. Also if anyone could tell me what size the bolts to hold the monitor bezel on are those are missing as well. Also it had the 3 pieces in the last pic in it that I have no idea where they go if someone can help out with that as well.
The two clear things go next to the gamepad mount (they slide right in). They are led diffusers to make the light not as bright. The other peice is for the sign on top. It protects/covers the wire until it goes into the hole where it goes to the lynx box.
I also compiled a fullish list of parts used for reference so you can hopefully determine what is missing. Its just a little spreadsheet being hosted on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EJPyAmBYgDXE1dSLA28WqSDllvMV_LFqZGfJQetHQcw
No, the speakers are not powered. Thats just what its rated for in case you wanna hook an amp to it. No real crossovers basically, the original connector takes in the right audio signal, then hooks up to the speaker along with some output wires that goto the right speaker. Think of it as two different speakers hooked up in parallel. Also, are those things labeled "f*" fuses? Or are they capacitors? If fuses, that will be the funniest thing because you can literally build your own 12v divider for those who dont have one of these things. Screw ebay, use banana jacks or find the connectors on digikey! Basically, just get some breadboard for power and ground, then add the connetors!
They are polyfuses. Each connector is fused seperately. 1.6A for the ports labeled LED and 1.1A for the ports labeled FAN. This box, while nice if you have the right connectors (digi-key parts 732-4758-ND and 732-4890-ND) is entirely unnecessary if you ask me. Wire up 9v-12v directly and you're done.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse
The fan fuse
The LED Fuse
No, the speakers are not powered. Thats just what its rated for in case you wanna hook an amp to it. No real crossovers basically, the original connector takes in the right audio signal, then hooks up to the speaker along with some output wires that goto the right speaker. Think of it as two different speakers hooked up in parallel. Also, are those things labeled "f*" fuses? Or are they capacitors? If fuses, that will be the funniest thing because you can literally build your own 12v divider for those who dont have one of these things. Screw ebay, use banana jacks or find the connectors on digikey! Basically, just get some breadboard for power and ground, then add the connetors!
They are polyfuses. Each connector (led strip) is fused seperately. 1.6A for the ports labeled LED and 1.1A for the ports labeled FAN
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/R...
The fan fuse
The LED Fuse
That's absolutely wonderful. Well, you heard it here folks, the lynx box is just a 12V splitter circuit. You can literally build your own with little to no effort .
Also, thanks for the link, it was a good read on something I didn't know.
That's absolutely wonderful. Well, you heard it here folks, the lynx box is just a 12V splitter circuit. You can literally build your own with little to no effort .
Also, thanks for the link, it was a good read on something I didn't know.
Just a few words for those reading this thread months or years from now ....
Without the lynx box you dont have short protection which is ok if youre careful and dont short something out. =>
It was added so they could use a single 5 amp power supply without scaring the liability lawyers. If someone shorts out one segment (like one of the strips on the back of the unit) that segment could draw whatever current is available, in this case the 5 amps on the stock power supply. Wires would get hot, they would smell or melt, burn out and maybe make a little fire. With the fuse if a segment draws more current than the trip rating of the fuse it will do its thing and cut the power to that segment.
This being said, if I didnt have the box I wouldnt spend money to replace it.
Unit no. 1: serial # 4032 M# WUPM128P-WUP N N N N N N N N Y Y N N
Unit no. 2 serial # 696 M# WUPM128P-WUP N N N Y
Unit no 3 Missing S# M# WUPM128P-WUP N N N N Y N N Y Y Y N N
Unit no 4 S# 686 M# WUPM128-WUP N N N Y
Now that that is done........... let me see if i can get these pics uploaded......
Originally posted by: han2
Are there any demo console owners here? I have been looking for a thread focusing on the demo wii itself but haven't found one. Can someone point me to one or should we start one?
I own one. It's a WIS-001, but I don't know too much about it. I don't have the gamepad for it, so it's quite limited in what it can do. I've had a hard time trying to get a few questions answered about it on here and other forums. Frustrating.
Picked this up today, I will post the information for it tomorrow. Posting a pic of it dissembled if anyone can tell me what all is missing so I know what to look for to complete it. I know i need the plastic console cover, LEDs, & sign on top. Also if anyone could tell me what size the bolts to hold the monitor bezel on are those are missing as well. Also it had the 3 pieces in the last pic in it that I have no idea where they go if someone can help out with that as well.
The two clear things go next to the gamepad mount (they slide right in). They are led diffusers to make the light not as bright. The other peice is for the sign on top. It protects/covers the wire until it goes into the hole where it goes to the lynx box.
I also compiled a fullish list of parts used for reference so you can hopefully determine what is missing. Its just a little spreadsheet being hosted on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=...
Thanks for the list can you post a pic of where those diffusers go I looked it over this morning but didn't see where they went
Originally posted by: cgfeelit
Originally posted by: SNESNESCUBE64
Originally posted by: cgfeelit
...
Thanks for the list can you post a pic of where those diffusers go I looked it over this morning but didn't see where they went
Here is a quick picture that I took a while back when I was working on my audio solution, I circled where the defusers go.
I just ran into a problem. It seems that now my monitor is stuck in a really high contrast mode? What can I do to fix this? it is in both inputs as the pi has this issue.
Nevermind: Solution - Download AnyMote Smart Remote app for android. plug an ir blaster. set the remote up for element elchs262. click the button to the right of menu on the remote to open menu. on the kiosk, use the volume buttons to scroll to the right, then change the mode from High Brightness to User.
A quick note people, turn the TV off first before you cut the power. That way it doesn't screw things up like this. This is the greatest controller board, so it will do stupid stuff like this... I'm thinking at this point, its no coincidence that these things don't have audio as a result. Maybe if I am lucky, I can fix the audio by playing with the settings...
Member - aperson94
Serial # - 922
Model # - ?
Gamepad - N
Wii Remotes - N
Demo Console - N
Lynx Monitor*2 - Y
Monitor Bezel - Y
WiiU LED Sign - Y
Original High Security Key - N
Subwoofer - Y
Wrench - Y
Back Sign - Y (Mario/Splatoon and original Wii U versions)
Papers - N
Interactive Demo Discs - N
Does anyone know why mine came with an extra lock latch?
i will see if i can mak a copy of my key Andy. If i can i will send it to you for free
There's just one problem with that,all the keys are different. I found this out when trying to make a 3d model of one of these things so I can just 3d print it. Also, just by comparing them on ebay, I can clearly see that each of them are different.
Originally posted by: cgfeelit
Originally posted by: SNESNESCUBE64
Originally posted by: cgfeelit
...
Thanks for the list can you post a pic of where those diffusers go I looked it over this morning but didn't see where they went
Here is a quick picture that I took a while back when I was working on my audio solution, I circled where the defusers go.
>
Thanks not where I was looking at all
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post.
Question, what model vizeo did you use that worked, and how did you mount it?
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post.
Question, what model vizeo did you use that worked, and how did you mount it?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/VIZIO-D-Series-32-Class-31.5-Diag.-1080p-60Hz-Full-Array-LED-Smart-HDTV-D32x-D1/49228250
There's the model I bought. I wanted to go with the 1080p model even though it's a little more pricey. I was also glad that it was Smart TV enabled but must say I was dissapointed with that side of it. It's a much more limited Smart TV than my newer Sony TV and doesn't have 2 apps available that I was specifically hoping to use.
Mounting it was tricky. How I did it was I laid the bezel face down then placed the TV face down inside the bezel. Then I placed the white metal monitor bracing from the kiosk in it's position. I used a tape measure to center the tv in the hole. This is probably the hardest part. I spent a lot of time trying to get it centered and still didn't get it perfect. Then I used the verticle mounting pieces from a cheap TV Wall Mount that I had bought. They were basically two flat strips of metal with various slots and holes for mounting. I then marked and drilled two holes into the white monitor bracing equidistant from the center and bolted the vertical mounting strips to the bracing. Then I used washers to fill the space between the back of the TV and the mounting strips in order to push the botom of the TV out instead of it hanging at a downward tilt. After I put everything together and had it hanging on the kiosk I had to add a piece of cardboard to push the bottom of the TV out just a little more to close up the space between the bezel and the screen.
Finding where exactly to make the holes is the hardest part. Make sure you have a sharp drill bit too, that metal is pretty hard. I hope this is helpful, I probably should've taken pictures for others wanting to do this too. If I have the back off again sometime I'll try to remember to get some pics.
Ok, I'm finally ready to share pics of mine. I got it in full working order, cozied up next to my Playchoice. We had a family get-together last night and my nieces and nephews played on it for hours. The details for the table are: Name - Kylie D., Serial # 4060, Model - WUPM128P-WUP, N,N,N,N,Y,Y,N,N,Y,Y,R,N. The short version of how I obtained the unit is that I called the manager to ask about it. She told me to check back after she talked to her District Manager, but she was overall optimistic about it. However, when I talked to her again she told me that she was required to have it destroyed. On February 11th I saw it in the dumpster next to the store. The pic in the back of my truck is what it looked like when I found it. I had to rebuild the particle board back and flatten out some of the steel pieces. I installed a 32" Vizio 1080P TV from Wal-Mart. I had to purchase the top metal assembly on eBay as well as the light up LED sign. The only thing I still want to do is finish wiring up the side LEDs. Thanks everyone for posting info in here and keeping the thread updated. Just in case a Moderator comes back through passing out accolades I'm going to go ahead and post pics of my complete Nintendo Power set too (sorry guys for being too lazy to do a separate post. '
Nice job! She is looking real good!
Anyone have suggestions/info on replacements for the rear fan and the small subwoofer? If possible I'd love to get exact parts.
The stock fan is a 110v fan. It moves a lot of air and is loud.
I was considering trying two 12v fans instead since there is spaces for 2 fans and see if that moves enough air.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/wii-u-kiosk-cover-plexiglass-/142294305514?hash=item212166caea:g:WC4AAOSwTM5Ys5QQ
Are there any demo console owners here? I have been looking for a thread focusing on the demo wii itself but haven't found one. Can someone point me to one or should we start one?
I own one. It's a WIS-001, but I don't know too much about it. I don't have the gamepad for it, so it's quite limited in what it can do. I've had a hard time trying to get a few questions answered about it on here and other forums. Frustrating.
I started a Wii U demo console thread so we can pool our efforts in learning about this unit.
http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=5&threadid=171699
In that thread you will see strange and exotic things like the following:
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key