Sega CD solder issue

hey guys so I have never solder in my life and this was a nightmare... I read online that when a sega cd doesnt power on its an easy fix just 1 fuse. SO i bought all the stuff I needed and went to work with youtube as a guide. Well the f'ng solder wouldnt melt so i got pissed off, tried to rip the fuse out, then took a power drill to it...made a bigger hole maybe? but barely and it worked so whatever. Then I tried to solder in the new fuse, pain in the butt but got it done. See pictures... My issue is after lookig at the youtube videos maybe I changed the wrong fuse? Still wont work maybe I fubared it but it may have also been the wrong fuse... anyone have any experience with this crap?



https://imgur.com/a/Hf9qp

Comments

  • That looks like the Sony board, and on those, there is a surface mount fuse on the underside of the board that probably needs replaced. Here is the fuse: https://console5.com/store/fuse-125v-2-5a-smd-nano-littelfuse-sega-cd.html



    It looks like you replaed it, but the solder work doesn't look great. Have you checked for continuity across the pads for the new fuses? Also, if you took a drill to it and tried to rip it off, you may have damaged the electrical traces. You should check them for continuity from the fuse to the next connection.
  • Yeah you probably damaged traces and now the board will likely need repaired. It is possible that the power transistor is bad, or you could have something else wrong with the console. But as of now you almost definitely messed up that board.
  • Check continuity all around. Power plug to the fuse. Then past the fuse. Make sure your traces are still intact. 



    Not sure how much this will help but this is how I got around replacing that tiny fuse in mine. If you can’t tell that’s a glass auto fuse and a plastic fuse holder double sided taped to the case. Easy to replace if it ever goes out again. 







  • Originally posted by: Archangel3090



    hey guys so I have never solder in my life and this was a nightmare... I read online that when a sega cd doesnt power on its an easy fix just 1 fuse. SO i bought all the stuff I needed and went to work with youtube as a guide. Well the f'ng solder wouldnt melt so i got pissed off, tried to rip the fuse out, then took a power drill to it...made a bigger hole maybe? but barely and it worked so whatever. Then I tried to solder in the new fuse, pain in the butt but got it done. See pictures... My issue is after lookig at the youtube videos maybe I changed the wrong fuse? Still wont work maybe I fubared it but it may have also been the wrong fuse... anyone have any experience with this crap?



    https://imgur.com/a/Hf9qp...

    Now that I'm home and can look on a bigger screen you changed the wrong thing. The fuse is the tiny white rectangle on the back of the board. 



     
  • He changes the Pico fuse. So that's the right thig.
  • Originally posted by: Mobiusstriptech



    He changes the Pico fuse. So that's the right thig.



    It looked to me like he changed the green thing (maybe diode) next to the pico fuse. 

     
  • At the end of the day he still probably did a bunch of damage to the board.
  • Haha learning here guys, j will try replacing that other fuse and see... either way it was garbage ingot for free and wanted to fix to make a few bucks. Worst case scenario i practice on it and learn to solder because in this hobby i. Eed to learn and i have no clue what im doing... clearly
  • Can i just replace that back thing with a pico fuse?
  • Originally posted by: Archangel3090



    Can i just replace that back thing with a pico fuse?

    What back thing?



     
  • the fuse on the back you showed me
  • The pico fuse is the white rectangle on the bottom of the board labeled at "F301". Should be 2.5 amp if I remember right.



    The green fuse you used is a different type of pico fuse that will work but you put it in the wrong place. You removed what I think is a diode and replaced it with a fuse. You'll have to remove the green fuse and put the diode, or whatever it was back in its place. Then attach the fuse. Almost pointless to remove the old pico fuse because you can just attract the new fuse to the old solder joints.



    If that makes any sense.
  • Damn, the diode is in the garbage, all the videos i watched showed that as the place where it was ugh.... can it work if i replace the fuse and just keep the thing i put in too
  • Originally posted by: Archangel3090



    Damn, the diode is in the garbage, all the videos i watched showed that as the place where it was ugh.... can it work if i replace the fuse and just keep the thing i put in too





    A diode only lets current flow in one direction and a fuse allows it to go both ways. If that was a diode, you probably want a same-spec diode installed there. If the pads/traces are mangled, it's still possible to run jumpers to wherever those traces lead to.

     
  • Oh god this is way outside my wheelhouse
  • I see "F301" and "D301" right next to each other on the underside(?) of the board. Both are surface-mount components (not through-hole components). The silk-screen labels are offset, so it might be confusing which one is the diode and which one is the fuse. The F301 fuse is white.



    "D301" is the diode. It looks like it's still there in the picture.



    The "FB503" through-hole component (ferrite bead?) appears to be on the top(?) board. If you had the old fuse from that spot, a cheap multimeter could test for continuity and tell you if it was bad. You could check the small surface-mount F301 too. Continuity just means it passes current through from one leg to the other. Sill, I can't assume the new fuse is making a good electrical connection to those pads and to the rest of the system. Drilling the holes probably destroyed the pads.
  • Originally posted by: DrStevenJones

     
    Originally posted by: Mobiusstriptech



    He changes the Pico fuse. So that's the right thig.



    It looked to me like he changed the green thing (maybe diode) next to the pico fuse. 

     



    No. He changed the through-hole FB503 on the top of the board. He showed that area on the bottom because that's where the through-hole legs come out.



    As far as I can tell, he didn't change D301 (diode) nor F301 (fuse). Still it's possible fuse F301 is bad and fuse FB503 was fine. Wouldn't know unless it was checked for continuity first. Traces and pads are probably damaged now.
  • I can appreciate wanting to learn, Archangel3090. I'd suggest getting some junk electronics that someone is just tossing in the garbage and going nuts on it. Practice desoldering and resoldering the same parts onto the board until you feel decent at it. That way you won't have an expensive mistake like this in the future.
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