Question about arcade monitors

I am thinking of buying my first arcade cabinet. However, I am a bit concerned about the longevity of the monitors. Do they crap out frequently? Is it safe to repair a monitor? I've read that CRTs are getting harder to find now that there are lead laws, but I'm not sure if that's true or not. I'd appreciate any info that you arcade owners could pass along. Thanks!

Comments

  • They last a long time if you take care of them. Leaving them on all the time you'll get the screen burn, but if you get a good one it shouldn't crap out on you anytime soon.



    From the few arcade cabinets I've owned in my life (see: 4?) the worst I've come across is a monitor that needed a cap kit. I was never brave enough to tackle replacing the stuff myself, but I'm pretty sure that's the worst it could come to. I haven't heard of monitors just kicking the bucket randomly.
  • You only get screen burn-in if the particular game has static components on screen (like the sidebar in Gauntlet).



    A cap kit takes about 30 minutes to an hour, and only involves $10, or so, worth of parts.

    As for stuff worse than that, there are a few things that can happen.  You could crack/break the actual tube...they're replaceable but that's a harder job.  But it shouldn't happen unless you do something REALLY stupid.  Also, there are probably a dozen pots and resistors on the board that CAN fail, but don't need replacement nearly as frequently as the capacitors.


    The nice thing about old arcade monitors, is that the circuitry is SO spread out, you have a ton of room to work with.



    If you ever have problems with it, there is a whole board on KLOV that deals with just monitor issues, and there are quite a few monitor repair guys from "back in the day" that know EVERYTHING about pretty much every monitor. Also, the service and maintenance manuals are readily available for any monitor you're likely to use.
  • The only safety concern with arcade monitors is discharging the anode.



    I've had about 20 cabs pass through my hands and the most repair I ever did myself was control panel work. I can't solder to save my life. I will admit it all seems pretty easy if you're even slightly handy.
  • Originally posted by: portnoyd

    The only safety concern with arcade monitors is discharging the anode.





    On a monitor that needs a cap kit (i.e. the caps can't hold an adequate charge anymore), as long as you leave the cabinet unplugged for a few hours everything will discharge naturally (though you should still discharge the anode per the instructions that come with your cap kit).

    The monitor CAN hold a pretty high voltage if the caps are in working order, but the amperage is pretty puny, and unless you're unlucky (get defibbed at exactly the wrong moment) or have a heart condition a shock from it won't kill you.

  • Originally posted by: arch_8ngel

    a shock from it won't kill you.


    Yes, but it would certainly ruin your day!

  • I just installed a flyback kit in mine and it was pretty easy. The parts are spread out as Arch said which makes it easier to solder. Dont ever just dive in and start touching things though. There are warnings all over the tube for a reason. You have to know what your doing to work on them.
  • Thanks everyone! Yeah... there's a dual-monitor PC-10 for sale locally that has screen burn in the bottom monitor. Sadness! I'm trying to decide whether it would be worth it to buy it and switch the bottom and top monitors so at least the burned monitor is up at the top.
  • Originally posted by: Rachel

    Thanks everyone! Yeah... there's a dual-monitor PC-10 for sale locally that has screen burn in the bottom monitor. Sadness! I'm trying to decide whether it would be worth it to buy it and switch the bottom and top monitors so at least the burned monitor is up at the top.


    The 19" Sanyo monitors that Nintendo used in most of their cabinets can be obtained in decent condition for about $100.

    Also, check the monitor repair subforum at KLOV about what cheaper sets you might be able to get a tube from to correct the burn-in.
  • Originally posted by: arch_8ngel


    A cap kit takes about 30 minutes to an hour, and only involves $10, or so, worth of parts.



    If your good, and have done about 20 of them lol.

    If its your first time plan to set there and tinker slowly for about 2 to 3 hours. I just did my first and i was so intent on not putting them in backwards i set there forever triple checking each one.

    Also trying to desolder stuff is pretty tough if you don't have a decent desoldering tool. And normally if you havent done a lot of them you will run into some confusion with cap switches/mods that need to be done to certain boards. I just did a full rebuild on a G07 and there some things you need to mod for it to work correctly and that takes more time as well.


  • www.klov.com (forums) http://www.therealbobroberts.net/ and http://randyfromm.com/shopping/



    Go to all those sites read read and read. You can become an arcade Guru :-)



    Oh BTW the Randy Fromm set is excellent! and makes learning all that stuff MUCH easier
  • Originally posted by: Parpunk

    Originally posted by: arch_8ngel


    A cap kit takes about 30 minutes to an hour, and only involves $10, or so, worth of parts.



    If your good, and have done about 20 of them lol.

    If its your first time plan to set there and tinker slowly for about 2 to 3 hours. I just did my first and i was so intent on not putting them in backwards i set there forever triple checking each one.

    Also trying to desolder stuff is pretty tough if you don't have a decent desoldering tool. And normally if you havent done a lot of them you will run into some confusion with cap switches/mods that need to be done to certain boards. I just did a full rebuild on a G07 and there some things you need to mod for it to work correctly and that takes more time as well.




    I've only done one, and it was on a Sanyo 20EZ, which I hear is harder than most...it took about an hour since it has twice as many capacitors as most of the Wells Gardner monitors.

    With a good cap map the whole things was pretty easy to figure out.  The hardest part was getting the circuit board out of the cabinet.
  • I just finished my first cap kit on a Sanyo 20EZ from my PC10 dual monitor, and the actual capping of the board was fairly easy, but getting it out and putting everything back in correctly was much tougher. When I finally put it back in, I accidentally pushed on the back of the monitor and broke the neck board in three pieces, but I ordered a different one off of the KLOV boards and put it in today.



    I've gone to the KLOV boards with arcade issues twice now with different machines, and they're more than happy to help somebody out, and I'd probably have two non working machines if it wasn't for them. Also, if you plan on switching out your monitors, take pictures of everything before messing with it, label the wires that you disconnect, stay calm and take it slow.
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