Did this yesterday. Phenomenal results. My console works almost every try now, and if not, a small jiggle of the cartridge fixes any problems - except with my Wizards & Warriors cart which seems to not want to work at all... weird.
Awesome. I'll keep this in mind before buying a new one on ebay. I have an extra connector sitting around from the last one I replaced, I'll just boil it up.
Although I just cleaned one the other day (pulled it off, rubbed main board with alcohol, replaced) and it worked pretty good without boiling it. This sounds promising for really stubborn ones though!
I boiled a connector yesterday after trying another method earlier in the week where I lightly filed the contacts. In both cases, I bent the pins up slightly using some small, curved nail scissors (because they could rech under the pins better than a screwdriver due to their fine point and curve).
Seems to have worked pretty well in both cases. The boiling method was less work, though, and I tend to like this method better because it doesn't involve any chance of removing metal from the pins. I still ran a fine file across the pins once just to knock loose any corrosion that might have been in there, but it was just a one pass deal.
These were the first two systems I've actually tried to recondition. Thanks to whoever brought up the point about the plastic tab sliding under the mobo... I totally screwed that up on my first try and I was wondering why the tray looked so odd and wouldn't screw in all the way without locking up. Doh! I sealed it up and gave it away but I figure as long as it works it should be ok. I told the person to let me know if it gives them any trouble.
So, I picked up a crazy nasty "broken" NES off craigslist yesterday with cables, three controllers, and six games (Contra, SMB2, Tetris, Double Dragon, Pacmania, and Wrath of Black Manta) for $20. The NES looked like someone took a dump on it and smeared it into the system...seriously. Anyway, I figured this would be the best time to try the boiled connector method with not a lot of cash at risk and the nastiest NES I've ever seen as a challenge. I took the disgusting NES apart and cleaned it while I boiled the pin connector. Put everything back together and the damned thing looked good as new and played good as new...
Thanks for the tip and for everyone else's feedback...
My nes started blinking a long time ago. A few months ago, I couldn't get any game to work. I opened it, cleaned it and boiled the connector. Now, the games start on the first try.
For a while, I thought I had gotten a sound problem; I didn't remember the intro of super mario bros don't have sound!
In 3 days i did this w 3 dirty yard sale toasters. i have a 3/3 success rate. As much as you all laughed at "stir occasionally " i believe it to be an important step.
Lightly tumbling it around the pot while fully submersed did visibly knock loose some grime specks i dont believe would have came out otherwise.
Not a joke. I boiled 7 old pin connectors that I had saved from refurbs and bent the pins up with a Diaper pin and 6 out of the 7 worked like a charm!! I didn't use a cart to clean them the the OP did but I'm gonna try that next time.
I have tried this with an old original OEM Nintendo connector. It's a myth. True, the connector won't melt as long as there's water still in the pot limiting the temperature to 212 degrees F (100 C), but I took it out, even dried it in the toaster oven, and it didn't make a dick of difference as far as reading games. The original connector was still flaky as ever, so I put the aftermarket connector back in. You can try the "boiling" trick if you want, but all it will do is waste an hour or more of your free time. A better way to do it would be to extend each of the 72 pins slightly with a pair of needlenose pliers. Or just get a new aftermarket connector and save yourself the trouble.
I have tried this with an old original OEM Nintendo connector. It's a myth. True, the connector won't melt as long as there's water still in the pot limiting the temperature to 212 degrees F (100 C), but I took it out, even dried it in the toaster oven, and it didn't make a dick of difference as far as reading games. The original connector was still flaky as ever, so I put the aftermarket connector back in. You can try the "boiling" trick if you want, but all it will do is waste an hour or more of your free time. A better way to do it would be to extend each of the 72 pins slightly with a pair of needlenose pliers. Or just get a new aftermarket connector and save yourself the trouble.
Yes, it's clearly a myth for you. For the rest of us it worked for we will continue enjoying the process and reaping the rewards of not buying new pin connectors. (I'm 8 for 8 now)...
won't that warp the plastic? would distilled water be better for this purpose?
Yes, I strongly suggest distilled or filtered water. When I first tried boiled a couple years ago, I noticed a little residue on my connectors. My most recent batch, I used filtered water and the connectors had no residue.
The plastic does not get warped or damaged in any way. The type of plastic used on the connector appears to have a very high melting point. I understand your concern, though. There are many types of plastic that do become very pliable when placed in boiling water. I have straightened plastic figurines with boiling water, as it makes them bend easily.
As for this being a myth, I can assure everyone that it does work with minimal effort. I don't scrub. I don't manually bend the pins. I simply boil, shake most of the water out in a towel, and use hair dryer to complete the drying. It takes less than 10 minutes of your time and it works.
The last time I tried this, I ended the process of one connector by spraying it with isopropyl (contact cleaner). This seemed to make the connector not work very well at first! I do know that isopropyl is non-conductive, and it leaves a slight lubricating reside, so I believe it hindered the connection between the cart and connector. After removing and inserting a game a dozen times to wear off the isopropyl, the system started working 100%, even passing my "tap test" (I physically tap on the game while it is inside the system). Lesson learned.
I hope you're being sarcastic. The NES may actually still work, but you'll have to dry it off quickly. Moisture sitting in the cracks for days will cause it to rust out for sure. I've had flash drives survive the laundry, but it's not something you'll want to do on purpose, especially with vintage hardware. Water+air corrodes electronics, not water or air by itself, so the faster it dries, the better off you are. If you are hell bent on "dunking" your NES, then at least do it in 91% isopropyl alcohol, because the alcohol acts as a reduction agent and at 91% concentration, will evaporate evenly with the water, leaving no residue. And you'd better boil it outside, because alcohol is flammable, and if you use isopropyl, then the fumes are also toxic! Or you could use moonshine (everclear or 190 proof vodka will also do; make sure it's 95% ethanol or grain alcohol) and breathe in heavily the NES vapours over the boiling pot; you will get drunk fast without drinking anything...
I hope you're being sarcastic. The NES may actually still work, but you'll have to dry it off quickly. Moisture sitting in the cracks for days will cause it to rust out for sure. I've had flash drives survive the laundry, but it's not something you'll want to do on purpose, especially with vintage hardware. Water+air corrodes electronics, not water or air by itself, so the faster it dries, the better off you are. If you are hell bent on "dunking" your NES, then at least do it in 91% isopropyl alcohol, because the alcohol acts as a reduction agent and at 91% concentration, will evaporate evenly with the water, leaving no residue. And you'd better boil it outside, because alcohol is flammable, and if you use isopropyl, then the fumes are also toxic! Or you could use moonshine (everclear or 190 proof vodka will also do; make sure it's 95% ethanol or grain alcohol) and breathe in heavily the NES vapours over the boiling pot; you will get drunk fast without drinking anything...
yep
just a joke
for real tho....i am actually trying the 72 pin thing now.....i will seriously report back (pins only, no console
Just did this and I'm blown away by how well it worked. I also disabled the lock out chip, which I think helps with the whole resetting thing..but the NES now reads every game, first shot, every time. I'll be doing this to every NES I have now. Thank you so so so much!
I just tried this and it worked beautifuly, followed the same methodology as directed above: boil 3 minutes, jam cart in a few times, boil another 3 minutes, dry put back in and BAM! I'm really excited about this, as I have 5 NES consoles and only 1 of them (2 of them now ) work. Excelent tip, much appreciated!
Add myself to the list that this worked for. Follwed steps and then of course still cleaned the pins with cleaning kit but yes, 3/3 cleaned works like a champ. One of them worked so well I swapped it with my own personal one.
I tested it on both an official 72 pin connector and unofficial 72 pin connector.
The official pin connector did not work after the first attempt
The unofficial pin connector did work after the first attempt
I may try boiling the official one again tomorrow. Perhaps it needs more time, because the official one doesn't try to hold onto cartridges for dear life.
Has anyone had success with an official pin connector versus an unofficial pin connector?
Comments
Although I just cleaned one the other day (pulled it off, rubbed main board with alcohol, replaced) and it worked pretty good without boiling it. This sounds promising for really stubborn ones though!
Seems to have worked pretty well in both cases. The boiling method was less work, though, and I tend to like this method better because it doesn't involve any chance of removing metal from the pins. I still ran a fine file across the pins once just to knock loose any corrosion that might have been in there, but it was just a one pass deal.
These were the first two systems I've actually tried to recondition. Thanks to whoever brought up the point about the plastic tab sliding under the mobo... I totally screwed that up on my first try and I was wondering why the tray looked so odd and wouldn't screw in all the way without locking up. Doh! I sealed it up and gave it away but I figure as long as it works it should be ok. I told the person to let me know if it gives them any trouble.
Thanks for the tip and for everyone else's feedback...
My nes started blinking a long time ago. A few months ago, I couldn't get any game to work. I opened it, cleaned it and boiled the connector. Now, the games start on the first try.
For a while, I thought I had gotten a sound problem; I didn't remember the intro of super mario bros don't have sound!
Lightly tumbling it around the pot while fully submersed did visibly knock loose some grime specks i dont believe would have came out otherwise.
Great thread.
But seriously, who knew that worked? I bet someone discovered it accidentaly by tossing Jimmy's NES cart connector on a soup
Originally posted by: stardust4ever
I have tried this with an old original OEM Nintendo connector. It's a myth. True, the connector won't melt as long as there's water still in the pot limiting the temperature to 212 degrees F (100 C), but I took it out, even dried it in the toaster oven, and it didn't make a dick of difference as far as reading games. The original connector was still flaky as ever, so I put the aftermarket connector back in. You can try the "boiling" trick if you want, but all it will do is waste an hour or more of your free time. A better way to do it would be to extend each of the 72 pins slightly with a pair of needlenose pliers. Or just get a new aftermarket connector and save yourself the trouble.
Yes, it's clearly a myth for you. For the rest of us it worked for we will continue enjoying the process and reaping the rewards of not buying new pin connectors. (I'm 8 for 8 now)...
Originally posted by: standigz
won't that warp the plastic? would distilled water be better for this purpose?
Yes, I strongly suggest distilled or filtered water. When I first tried boiled a couple years ago, I noticed a little residue on my connectors. My most recent batch, I used filtered water and the connectors had no residue.
The plastic does not get warped or damaged in any way. The type of plastic used on the connector appears to have a very high melting point. I understand your concern, though. There are many types of plastic that do become very pliable when placed in boiling water. I have straightened plastic figurines with boiling water, as it makes them bend easily.
As for this being a myth, I can assure everyone that it does work with minimal effort. I don't scrub. I don't manually bend the pins. I simply boil, shake most of the water out in a towel, and use hair dryer to complete the drying. It takes less than 10 minutes of your time and it works.
The last time I tried this, I ended the process of one connector by spraying it with isopropyl (contact cleaner). This seemed to make the connector not work very well at first! I do know that isopropyl is non-conductive, and it leaves a slight lubricating reside, so I believe it hindered the connection between the cart and connector. After removing and inserting a game a dozen times to wear off the isopropyl, the system started working 100%, even passing my "tap test" (I physically tap on the game while it is inside the system). Lesson learned.
im just throwing the whole system in the pot
ill report back with my findings....
Originally posted by: mattyjmania
im too lazy to take out the connector and boil it
im just throwing the whole system in the pot
ill report back with my findings....
I hope you're being sarcastic. The NES may actually still work, but you'll have to dry it off quickly. Moisture sitting in the cracks for days will cause it to rust out for sure. I've had flash drives survive the laundry, but it's not something you'll want to do on purpose, especially with vintage hardware. Water+air corrodes electronics, not water or air by itself, so the faster it dries, the better off you are. If you are hell bent on "dunking" your NES, then at least do it in 91% isopropyl alcohol, because the alcohol acts as a reduction agent and at 91% concentration, will evaporate evenly with the water, leaving no residue. And you'd better boil it outside, because alcohol is flammable, and if you use isopropyl, then the fumes are also toxic! Or you could use moonshine (everclear or 190 proof vodka will also do; make sure it's 95% ethanol or grain alcohol) and breathe in heavily the NES vapours over the boiling pot; you will get drunk fast without drinking anything...
Originally posted by: stardust4ever
Originally posted by: mattyjmania
im too lazy to take out the connector and boil it
im just throwing the whole system in the pot
ill report back with my findings....
I hope you're being sarcastic. The NES may actually still work, but you'll have to dry it off quickly. Moisture sitting in the cracks for days will cause it to rust out for sure. I've had flash drives survive the laundry, but it's not something you'll want to do on purpose, especially with vintage hardware. Water+air corrodes electronics, not water or air by itself, so the faster it dries, the better off you are. If you are hell bent on "dunking" your NES, then at least do it in 91% isopropyl alcohol, because the alcohol acts as a reduction agent and at 91% concentration, will evaporate evenly with the water, leaving no residue. And you'd better boil it outside, because alcohol is flammable, and if you use isopropyl, then the fumes are also toxic! Or you could use moonshine (everclear or 190 proof vodka will also do; make sure it's 95% ethanol or grain alcohol) and breathe in heavily the NES vapours over the boiling pot; you will get drunk fast without drinking anything...
yep
just a joke
for real tho....i am actually trying the 72 pin thing now.....i will seriously report back (pins only, no console
Boiled three pin sets this weekend and they all came out working. Thanks for sharing
The official pin connector did not work after the first attempt
The unofficial pin connector did work after the first attempt
I may try boiling the official one again tomorrow. Perhaps it needs more time, because the official one doesn't try to hold onto cartridges for dear life.
Has anyone had success with an official pin connector versus an unofficial pin connector?