conditions
So how do you guys determine condition of stuff? I want to start going through all my SMS games and marking condition of things and adding some notes but not sure how to go about it.
I assume giving a 10 to something means it would like right out of the box and sealed so if things look damn near new, do you jst give 9s?
People that have done this have any pointers?
I assume giving a 10 to something means it would like right out of the box and sealed so if things look damn near new, do you jst give 9s?
People that have done this have any pointers?
Comments
Otherwise, quantifying the difference between 8/10 and 9/10, or VG+ and EX-, gets too angels-dancing-on-the-head-of-a-pin for me. I'm mainly a gamer, so for me, collecting is a product of that and mostly not an end in itself. (But I can still appreciate a mint-condition game, of course!)
ETA: Sorry, I just realized this post isn't especially helpful.
I have a copy of columns for the SMS and it is mint all around EXCEPT, the label art as a tiny tear in the middle of the top part of the spine, I mean like maybe 3mm in length. I have it an 8. I just trying to keep track of what I have so I know what I want to look for in terms of trying have my games be as good as possible. something like my example I wouldn't worry about but things I accept as like 4 or 5s, I'd look for better versions.
Again, I was just trying to get ideas how other represent conditions.
Originally posted by: bigbacon
I don't think it is like that at all...
I should quit being silly on here because a lot of people don't get my humor.
looks pretty damn good
a little beat up
pretty beat up
totally trashed
I don't really care about condition though. I'm not trying to up my 8.5s to 9s. I consider my SMRPG to be totally trashed, but I think I got it for $25 CIB and I'm not really looking to replace it. ¯\(°_o)/¯
Based on the above criteria, I do have some 10/10 games. Not many, but a few. I would say more than 3/4 of my games are 8 or 9/10 - something minor is wrong with them (missing hangtab, top or bottom edge of the case art is rough from hanging outside the plastic, manual has a creased corner or is bent from storage, or the cart has some marks of use).Case is undamaged in any way - no tears, marks, or waviness to the plastic. No external stickers. All internal structure (manual tabs, cart tabs, closure tabs) is intact and clean. Must have the hangtab naturally. For cardboard cases, no damage of any kind to the outer box. No dampness that caused the cardboard to soften. Of note, some of the cardboard cases didn't even come this way sealed.
Case art is undamaged (no rips, punctures, tears, or earmarking top and bottom where they sometimes stick out from the plastic). No stains, sun-fading, waviness, or stickers.
Cart is similarly undamaged. Must be free of glue plaque. Label must be stuck down firmly.
Manual must be clean, flat, and undamaged, with no writing or stickers anywhere. Corners and edges must be unmarked - no folded corners or rough edges. Staples must not be rusted. Manual must not be discolored (often happens with SMS manuals) or faded.
Of the rest, I would say most are 6 - 7/10 (multiple small issues, sun-faded or torn case art, glue plaque on the cart, manual has creases or significant folds. And I have a dozen or so that are 4 - 5/10, with stickers on the cart or manual, torn labels from stickers being removed, major sub-fading or tears in the case art, etc. I have those noted in my list so I can replace them when feasible.
Regarding grading, for every bit of damage you find, knock off a point. Within reason of course. A big honking Blockbuster sticker on the cart would immediately drop the condition to something like a 5 even if everything else were perfect (and would probably be a good reason to replace the cart).
Honestly, if it was any other system, I wouldn't care in the least but for how easy most SMS games are to get CIB, I can take the time over the long run to get nice version, though not everything I have is good all around. Something like NES/SNES, I would never even try. If I could get the cart and it works, then I'm happy.
condition is pretty big to me. i would glady over pay 3 times for something to get a condition i like. i've gone through a single game 4 times and will have to get at least a 5th to get a condition that satisfies me.
i can't imagine what people who do VGA go through.
For me, a 10 is "no noticeable flaws". If I need a microscope to see a scratch, it doesn't exist to me.
5 is average. Anywhere from 5-9 is still good but has at least one flaw like label is slightly faded in one spot (what I would consider a 9), or a crease or some kind. An 8 could be slightly worn label. A spot missing would be like a 5 or 6 if it's big enough, or an 8 if it's very small. For manuals if there is rust damage on the staples that has affected the book, it usually drops it down to an 8 or so for me. My copy of Vampire: Master of Darkness has noticeable crushing on one side, and the manual has a huge diagonal bend. Cart itself had a sticker on it but I was able to remove it. I consider it a 5 (average) altogether.
Maybe it's just Game Gear carts but it seems like they come off the assembly line with scratches already on them. Every single sealed GG game I opened had scratches on it like somebody tested the game before they sealed it up at the factory. Because of this I don't consider any small scratches near the bottom to work against the condition. Literally every game I own for the system has some kind of mark like this.
1-4 means severely flawed. Several flaws that are just unacceptable. Writing that cannot be removed, rips, tears, warping, sogginess, sun damage or severe oxidization all fall into this realm. For example, my worst condition game is easily Shining Force the Sword of Hajya, It has the following signs: warping of the manual and box, severe rust damage on the staples for the manual, name written in permanent ink on the side of the box, top flap is curling, front of the box has rips, odd odour (luckily I was able to remove that with a very thorough treatment using some dryer sheets). I give this game a 2.
0 is reserved for something that is outright damaged-- boxes with the UPC codes cut out (who keeps doing this?!), carts with the labels almost entirely or completely removed and whatnot.
2-3 50% chance non-working, very heavily scratched, possibly no labels, heavy marker ink
4-5 Working, but heavily scratched, faded labels, some marker ink
6-7 Light scratches, readable labels, light marker ink
8-9 No Marks or scratches, labels are intact and no marker ink
10 Mint condition like brand new.
that is my personal rating system. All of my Cosoles and games are above a 6
Mint - Only used for brand new items (once it's open, it's no longer mint)
Near Mint - Flawless but not new
Very Excellent - One or two minor scuffs or marks barely discernable without close examination
Exellent - Minor scuffing or a single minor tear or label peeling
Very Good - Moderate scuffing or a few minor tears/label peeling/moisture damage
Good - Major scuffing or a few moderate scratches/tears/peeling/moderate moisture damage
Fair - Major scratchs/peeling/tears/moisture damage
Poor - Severe scratchs/peeling/tears/moisture damage
For me, anything EX and up is collection worthy, but anything VG and below must be replaced.
Originally posted by: bigbacon
though I will admit to buying cheap copies of certain games just to get the cases...F-16 Mainly. Sega Card cases with tabs are hard to find and sadly I've exhausted all the cheap copies of F16 I can find...even ebay I'm look at lose to $10 bucks (including shipping)
Say, do you have any F-16 manuals left over? I could use one.