How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Then thats the first Ive really heard of it to be honest. I talk to alot of guys at car shows (biggest one in our area is Memorial Day M&M's show) and no one really cares like that its always "hey thats cool"
Was it some old timers that gave you crap maybe? Anyway there's still not a huge group of them out to shut everyone down who reproduces parts its a billion dollar industry.
That's exactly what it is. It was a year after the 50th anniversary of the Tin Indian (Yea, I use that term, I'm "old blood") so all they did was give the thing a nose job. The Formulas weren't invented yet (They're as old as me, they came out in 78) So, as much as I hate to say it, a 77 bird isn't really all that special. Sure, it's better than say, a tempest, and a ton better than say, a Buick century of the same year (ick; unless it has hydrolics)
The Model A, while not exactly all that special, does have more of a history than the 77 bird, so people would be more apt to mess with it. Likewise, something newer, if someone put an aftermarket engine in a 1989 Turbo Trans Am, that would be a damned shame. If they painted it blue with Megaman on the hood I'd pay admission to kick them in the balls.
So it depends on how much relevance the item has, and with age that creeps up. People would be less up in arms about a fake dragon warrior box than a fake donkey kong jr one. Especially if the stuff leaks out to the public.
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Actually, if it's not NOS, I know a few Pontiac guys who would think that was the worse sin you could do. HOWEVER, there is a major difference here: Many of the replacement stickers are OEM licensed. THAT makes it ok to me. While I know a few people wouldn't be ok with it, licensed parts are fine; they're generally on part with the same quality and should look like something that would be from the factory.
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Actually, if it's not NOS, I know a few Pontiac guys who would think that was the worse sin you could do. HOWEVER, there is a major difference here: Many of the replacement stickers are OEM licensed. THAT makes it ok to me. While I know a few people wouldn't be ok with it, licensed parts are fine; they're generally on part with the same quality and should look like something that would be from the factory.
Like i said i have not run into guys like that with cars (thank god). While there may be some licensed decals alot are not. Thats why there are different sizes, qualities, and adhesives used. From ehat ive read about the different ones sometimes the licensed one is a pain in the ass to apply right, and the unlicensed one works out better sometimea its the opposite. Depends on the supplier. Im not claiming to be an expert on decals just what ive read about them when i was trying to figure out what to do with mine
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Actually, if it's not NOS, I know a few Pontiac guys who would think that was the worse sin you could do. HOWEVER, there is a major difference here: Many of the replacement stickers are OEM licensed. THAT makes it ok to me. While I know a few people wouldn't be ok with it, licensed parts are fine; they're generally on part with the same quality and should look like something that would be from the factory.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Just remember to use ultra strong UV light that fades the colors of your original boxes in an instant.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
I've never seen them react. Only cart I know of that reacts is Kings of the Beach on nes, but that's intentional.
I will say if it doesn't react it doesn't mean it's legit, most big printers use ink that doesn't react; it's mostly inkjet and some color laser printers. I honestly havent tested PS2\PS3 much (None for PS3), but I don't think they react.
There are other ways to tell if a box was made years ago or if it was made today, but i would rather not put that info out where box makers could try and use that against us. Just know atleast at the moment there are more then two ways to tell besides already known ways.
This is without a doubt going to be the most unpopular opinion ever posted to this site, but when I think of all of the original boxes that have been destroyed or otherwise mutilated in the course of people being jackasses, I actually wish for someone to be able to make exact replicas to replace all of them. Like, if it's so absolutely perfect, every detail is authentic, what's really the point in caring if it's the real deal or not? It isn't the game that's being forged, it's the (arguably) most fragile part of the original experience.
Fake games really bug me, since everyone can just download these old titles free of charge from tons of websites. You can't download and make your own near perfect reproduction of a box without putting in a lot of effort, at least, as far as I'm concerned. This opinion might come from me just loving the boxes and the way they look on shelves more than I care if my collection is valued at anything over worthless.
Collecting isn't about the end result of having the item, it's about the journey of obtaining it. You can spend years searching for an item, getting up early and scouring resources to one day hold in your hand the exact item you have been looking for, in the condition you want, for a fair price and as you place it on your shelf, you stand back and reminisce about the amazing journey that took place in order to obtain it. Then your friend says, "Oh yeah, I have that game complete too, I just bought it off some guy online that makes them for $10."
Then you aren't friends any more.
Speak for yourself. You don't get to tell me why I collect. It's a personal choice, not an algebra equation.
Count me in the supposed 1%. If you want a repro box, then what do I care? Anyone who's butthurt about having paid hundreds of dollars for their original box shouldn't have any influence over someone else's decision.
Originally posted by: DeuceGamer
Originally posted by: Ozzy_98
Originally posted by: DeuceGamer
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
It's not so much a matter of "modern inks", but rather a difference in process. TW used a digital press (and thus powdered toner, not liquid ink), while original SNES boxes were printed on an offset press (with ink).
You could still print SNES boxes on an offset press, with the same chip board, and the same gold spot color for the seal of quality and NOBODY would be able to tell the difference. Box making really hasn't changed all that much, and making them the same way that they were 20+ years ago is not at all difficult.
Wiggyx would you please be a champ and delete that bottom comment please, i don't think its a good idea to put that out for all to see. Never mind it is too late now, it has been quoted.......
This is without a doubt going to be the most unpopular opinion ever posted to this site, but when I think of all of the original boxes that have been destroyed or otherwise mutilated in the course of people being jackasses, I actually wish for someone to be able to make exact replicas to replace all of them. Like, if it's so absolutely perfect, every detail is authentic, what's really the point in caring if it's the real deal or not? It isn't the game that's being forged, it's the (arguably) most fragile part of the original experience.
Fake games really bug me, since everyone can just download these old titles free of charge from tons of websites. You can't download and make your own near perfect reproduction of a box without putting in a lot of effort, at least, as far as I'm concerned. This opinion might come from me just loving the boxes and the way they look on shelves more than I care if my collection is valued at anything over worthless.
Collecting isn't about the end result of having the item, it's about the journey of obtaining it. You can spend years searching for an item, getting up early and scouring resources to one day hold in your hand the exact item you have been looking for, in the condition you want, for a fair price and as you place it on your shelf, you stand back and reminisce about the amazing journey that took place in order to obtain it. Then your friend says, "Oh yeah, I have that game complete too, I just bought it off some guy online that makes them for $10."
Then you aren't friends any more.
Speak for yourself. You don't get to tell me why I collect. It's a personal choice, not an algebra equation.
Count me in the supposed 1%. If you want a repro box, then what do I care? Anyone who's butthurt about having paid hundreds of dollars for their original box shouldn't have any influence over someone else's decision.
Originally posted by: DeuceGamer
Originally posted by: Ozzy_98
Originally posted by: DeuceGamer
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
It's not so much a matter of "modern inks", but rather a difference in process. TW used a digital press (and thus powdered toner, not liquid ink), while original SNES boxes were printed on an offset press (with ink).
You could still print SNES boxes on an offset press, with the same chip board, and the same gold spot color for the seal of quality and NOBODY would be able to tell the difference. Box making really hasn't changed all that much, and making them the same way that they were 20+ years ago is not at all difficult.
Perhaps, but you are forgetting economies of scale. Offset printing is far cheaper than ink jet or laser when you're doing a run of 10,000 boxes. But the setup cost for a run consisting of a few dozens of boxes like a typical homebrew would churn out would be astronomical. Small scale makers charge $15-$20 per box because it's expensive to produce small runs.
Technology difference behind large runs versus small is huge. You wouldn't 3D print 10,000 toys at $50 a pop, and likewise you sure as heck wouldn't commission a $10,000 injection mold to cast ten pieces.
So offset print boxes would need bulk which is something a scammer doesn't want. They would need to sell hundreds to recoup their inestment, and a 1:1 one-off replica is technically possible but would be more expensive than bidding on the legit item. Anybody on eBay with twenty boxes for Panic Restaurant or BB2 is asking for a butt-kicking. Anybody selling rare loot, check their sold listings. If they've sold ten Panics and fifteen BB2s, something's up...
This is without a doubt going to be the most unpopular opinion ever posted to this site, but when I think of all of the original boxes that have been destroyed or otherwise mutilated in the course of people being jackasses, I actually wish for someone to be able to make exact replicas to replace all of them. Like, if it's so absolutely perfect, every detail is authentic, what's really the point in caring if it's the real deal or not? It isn't the game that's being forged, it's the (arguably) most fragile part of the original experience.
Fake games really bug me, since everyone can just download these old titles free of charge from tons of websites. You can't download and make your own near perfect reproduction of a box without putting in a lot of effort, at least, as far as I'm concerned. This opinion might come from me just loving the boxes and the way they look on shelves more than I care if my collection is valued at anything over worthless.
Collecting isn't about the end result of having the item, it's about the journey of obtaining it. You can spend years searching for an item, getting up early and scouring resources to one day hold in your hand the exact item you have been looking for, in the condition you want, for a fair price and as you place it on your shelf, you stand back and reminisce about the amazing journey that took place in order to obtain it. Then your friend says, "Oh yeah, I have that game complete too, I just bought it off some guy online that makes them for $10."
Then you aren't friends any more.
Speak for yourself. You don't get to tell me why I collect. It's a personal choice, not an algebra equation.
Count me in the supposed 1%. If you want a repro box, then what do I care? Anyone who's butthurt about having paid hundreds of dollars for their original box shouldn't have any influence over someone else's decision.
Originally posted by: DeuceGamer
Originally posted by: Ozzy_98
Originally posted by: DeuceGamer
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
It's not so much a matter of "modern inks", but rather a difference in process. TW used a digital press (and thus powdered toner, not liquid ink), while original SNES boxes were printed on an offset press (with ink).
You could still print SNES boxes on an offset press, with the same chip board, and the same gold spot color for the seal of quality and NOBODY would be able to tell the difference. Box making really hasn't changed all that much, and making them the same way that they were 20+ years ago is not at all difficult.
That's why I said this in the next post:" I will say if it doesn't react it doesn't mean it's legit, most big printers use ink that doesn't react; it's mostly inkjet and some color laser printers. I honestly havent tested PS2\PS3 much (None for PS3), but I don't think they react."
I think we're going to reach a time where collectors won't buy a Near Mint box unless it's been graded or they know who they're buying from. Maybe it's also a case of the meek inheriting the earth; all the collectors who were okay with settling for worn boxes can be a bit more confident that what they own is legit.
This, absolutely, 100%. With a few minor exceptions for games that meant a lot to me growing up, I made it a point to put together a CIB collection with boxes that varied from 5/10-9/10 shape. I'm about 90% of the way there, and looking back, I'm really happy with that decision to not put a huge amount of emphasis on box/manual quality.
*nod* It helps in a couple of other ways too: You don't have to worry as much about getting trapped in a cycle of upgrades, or having to acquire extra protection for your boxes to prevent grade-shifts. I've noticed that in the past when I started thinking along those lines is was often beneficial to either sell the item outright or set it aside.
Fake stuff seems to be actually helping my sales as of late. Put '100% authentic' in your eBay listing with proof and your stuff sells like gold. Would it still command big money without fake stuff being made? To some extent. but I actually think distinguishing it from fake gives you a good premium that wouldn't exist otherwise.
Now, for a buyer, that's a whole different story. I still feel like 99% of the time you'd be able to tell or at least be able to have enough doubt not to buy.
I also don't think of this stuff as any different from what custom makers do and such. Sure, you may be good at making custom artwork (consoles, boxes, games, etc.), but most of the time you're simply reproducing or ripping off a trademark that you have no right making money off of. There are people on this site that will gladly reproduce Nintendo decals, signs, and other Nintendo trademarked items.
I can tell the manual is a repo because it does not have the writing in the top right, but that box...I'm having trouble finding differences. This could pass as a real one if the colors faded and there were some creases. I need to finish my CIB collection quick!
Hello, been a lurker here for a while but thought I'd chime in on the subject. When I first saw this posted I immediately went and purchased one for evaluation, as I'd never seen a repro/counterfeit box with the same cardboard interior as authentic ones, so I wanted to compare them side by side with an original. It came today and I've got to say while not perfect, without additional tools these would pretty easily fool a lot of collectors, especially newer ones. The cardboard material used looks and feels nearly identical to authentic boxes and, with the exception of one spot, the printing is done well enough it was hard to see much difference unless a direct comparison was made. Unsurprisingly, nowhere on the box did it say anything about being a repro (looks like the dude was lying when he said he'd put something on a tab in his original thread..shocker!!). Fortunately there were still a couple methods that worked to differentiate the fake vs original so even if the printing errors were fixed it would still be possible to tell (at least for now).
I guess my point to all this is people people really need to start being on the look out for these and educate themselves about methods of how to authenticate paper based collectibles. This guy (before his listings were removed finally) was selling everything from Hagane boxes to Super Mario Kart, and where there's one cockroach you can see there usually a million more hiding in the walls. I know all the usual people will say they want them because originals are too expensive and that they'd never ever knowingly pass them off as real (just a guess, but I assume these are the same type that like to put giant spoilers on their civic's, or SS badges/decals on their V6 Camaros to go back to the car analogy), but it is absolutely inevitable these will continue to percolate through the market ending up in the hands of unsuspecting buyers.
In the future, Any minty box I see in the wild I am just going to assume its fake unless it comes from a trust worthy legit collector. If its super cheap like at a garage sale then chances are its legit and worth the risk.
In the future, Any minty box I see in the wild I am just going to assume its fake unless it comes from a trust worthy legit collector. If its super cheap like at a garage sale then chances are its legit and worth the risk.
I guess we all should post our collection pics as a proof!
^^And you supported his illegal behavior by buying his repro box.
Yes, this is something I certainly considered before doing, and honestly couldn't think of any other way to go about it. I've never bought a fake before as I was confident that I could tell the difference of one whether box, label, or cartridge when in hand. With these boxes and their matching cardboard I no longer had that confidence and needed to physically hold one to be sure. I guess the fact of the matter is whether we like it or not this kind of stuff is out there, and is here to stay. This guy may have had his listings removed from eBay, but I remember when people making fake labels or selling fake carts had theirs removed as well. Fast forward to today and eBay is littered with examples of each from sellers with feedback in the thousands. Still, all that being said while I'm not trying to stake out some moral high ground, I assure you I did not feel great making the purchase and have yet to decide whether to return it or not.
In the future, Any minty box I see in the wild I am just going to assume its fake unless it comes from a trust worthy legit collector. If its super cheap like at a garage sale then chances are its legit and worth the risk.
I guess we all should post our collection pics as a proof!
I mean for stuff I would be looking to buy for myself I trust everyone here has legit stuff
Comments
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
I can see your point there.
Then thats the first Ive really heard of it to be honest. I talk to alot of guys at car shows (biggest one in our area is Memorial Day M&M's show) and no one really cares like that its always "hey thats cool"
Was it some old timers that gave you crap maybe? Anyway there's still not a huge group of them out to shut everyone down who reproduces parts its a billion dollar industry.
That's exactly what it is. It was a year after the 50th anniversary of the Tin Indian (Yea, I use that term, I'm "old blood") so all they did was give the thing a nose job. The Formulas weren't invented yet (They're as old as me, they came out in 78) So, as much as I hate to say it, a 77 bird isn't really all that special. Sure, it's better than say, a tempest, and a ton better than say, a Buick century of the same year (ick; unless it has hydrolics)
The Model A, while not exactly all that special, does have more of a history than the 77 bird, so people would be more apt to mess with it. Likewise, something newer, if someone put an aftermarket engine in a 1989 Turbo Trans Am, that would be a damned shame. If they painted it blue with Megaman on the hood I'd pay admission to kick them in the balls.
So it depends on how much relevance the item has, and with age that creeps up. People would be less up in arms about a fake dragon warrior box than a fake donkey kong jr one. Especially if the stuff leaks out to the public.
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Actually, if it's not NOS, I know a few Pontiac guys who would think that was the worse sin you could do. HOWEVER, there is a major difference here: Many of the replacement stickers are OEM licensed. THAT makes it ok to me. While I know a few people wouldn't be ok with it, licensed parts are fine; they're generally on part with the same quality and should look like something that would be from the factory.
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Actually, if it's not NOS, I know a few Pontiac guys who would think that was the worse sin you could do. HOWEVER, there is a major difference here: Many of the replacement stickers are OEM licensed. THAT makes it ok to me. While I know a few people wouldn't be ok with it, licensed parts are fine; they're generally on part with the same quality and should look like something that would be from the factory.
Like i said i have not run into guys like that with cars (thank god). While there may be some licensed decals alot are not. Thats why there are different sizes, qualities, and adhesives used. From ehat ive read about the different ones sometimes the licensed one is a pain in the ass to apply right, and the unlicensed one works out better sometimea its the opposite. Depends on the supplier. Im not claiming to be an expert on decals just what ive read about them when i was trying to figure out what to do with mine
How did this thread go from the replacement boxes to old kickass cars lol but reading through I see some actually reported these repo makers which is up to you if you do I don't like them either. I'm not understanding how a old classic car getting redone is the same. Really makes me want to get that 71 dodge demon I always wanted
Let me clear myslef up (not to sound condescending just trying to make my point) I could go online and buy a replacement label (sticker) for my NES game. I could also go online and buy a replacement Firebird decal (sticker) for my '77. The NES sticker results in being drawn and quartered on a forum the other results in a bunch of guys asking hows the quality and what method I used to apply it. Both are reproduced stickers coming from places that don't own the rights to them but this group sends out the mob while the car guys hand you a beer
Actually, if it's not NOS, I know a few Pontiac guys who would think that was the worse sin you could do. HOWEVER, there is a major difference here: Many of the replacement stickers are OEM licensed. THAT makes it ok to me. While I know a few people wouldn't be ok with it, licensed parts are fine; they're generally on part with the same quality and should look like something that would be from the factory.
That is a big fucking difference maker.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
That's is some major help thanks!
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Just remember to use ultra strong UV light that fades the colors of your original boxes in an instant.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
I've never seen them react. Only cart I know of that reacts is Kings of the Beach on nes, but that's intentional.
I will say if it doesn't react it doesn't mean it's legit, most big printers use ink that doesn't react; it's mostly inkjet and some color laser printers. I honestly havent tested PS2\PS3 much (None for PS3), but I don't think they react.
This is without a doubt going to be the most unpopular opinion ever posted to this site, but when I think of all of the original boxes that have been destroyed or otherwise mutilated in the course of people being jackasses, I actually wish for someone to be able to make exact replicas to replace all of them. Like, if it's so absolutely perfect, every detail is authentic, what's really the point in caring if it's the real deal or not? It isn't the game that's being forged, it's the (arguably) most fragile part of the original experience.
Fake games really bug me, since everyone can just download these old titles free of charge from tons of websites. You can't download and make your own near perfect reproduction of a box without putting in a lot of effort, at least, as far as I'm concerned. This opinion might come from me just loving the boxes and the way they look on shelves more than I care if my collection is valued at anything over worthless.
Collecting isn't about the end result of having the item, it's about the journey of obtaining it. You can spend years searching for an item, getting up early and scouring resources to one day hold in your hand the exact item you have been looking for, in the condition you want, for a fair price and as you place it on your shelf, you stand back and reminisce about the amazing journey that took place in order to obtain it. Then your friend says, "Oh yeah, I have that game complete too, I just bought it off some guy online that makes them for $10."
Then you aren't friends any more.
Speak for yourself. You don't get to tell me why I collect. It's a personal choice, not an algebra equation.
Count me in the supposed 1%. If you want a repro box, then what do I care? Anyone who's butthurt about having paid hundreds of dollars for their original box shouldn't have any influence over someone else's decision.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
It's not so much a matter of "modern inks", but rather a difference in process. TW used a digital press (and thus powdered toner, not liquid ink), while original SNES boxes were printed on an offset press (with ink).
You could still print SNES boxes on an offset press, with the same chip board, and the same gold spot color for the seal of quality and NOBODY would be able to tell the difference. Box making really hasn't changed all that much, and making them the same way that they were 20+ years ago is not at all difficult.
This is without a doubt going to be the most unpopular opinion ever posted to this site, but when I think of all of the original boxes that have been destroyed or otherwise mutilated in the course of people being jackasses, I actually wish for someone to be able to make exact replicas to replace all of them. Like, if it's so absolutely perfect, every detail is authentic, what's really the point in caring if it's the real deal or not? It isn't the game that's being forged, it's the (arguably) most fragile part of the original experience.
Fake games really bug me, since everyone can just download these old titles free of charge from tons of websites. You can't download and make your own near perfect reproduction of a box without putting in a lot of effort, at least, as far as I'm concerned. This opinion might come from me just loving the boxes and the way they look on shelves more than I care if my collection is valued at anything over worthless.
Collecting isn't about the end result of having the item, it's about the journey of obtaining it. You can spend years searching for an item, getting up early and scouring resources to one day hold in your hand the exact item you have been looking for, in the condition you want, for a fair price and as you place it on your shelf, you stand back and reminisce about the amazing journey that took place in order to obtain it. Then your friend says, "Oh yeah, I have that game complete too, I just bought it off some guy online that makes them for $10."
Then you aren't friends any more.
Speak for yourself. You don't get to tell me why I collect. It's a personal choice, not an algebra equation.
Count me in the supposed 1%. If you want a repro box, then what do I care? Anyone who's butthurt about having paid hundreds of dollars for their original box shouldn't have any influence over someone else's decision.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
It's not so much a matter of "modern inks", but rather a difference in process. TW used a digital press (and thus powdered toner, not liquid ink), while original SNES boxes were printed on an offset press (with ink).
You could still print SNES boxes on an offset press, with the same chip board, and the same gold spot color for the seal of quality and NOBODY would be able to tell the difference. Box making really hasn't changed all that much, and making them the same way that they were 20+ years ago is not at all difficult.
Perhaps, but you are forgetting economies of scale. Offset printing is far cheaper than ink jet or laser when you're doing a run of 10,000 boxes. But the setup cost for a run consisting of a few dozens of boxes like a typical homebrew would churn out would be astronomical. Small scale makers charge $15-$20 per box because it's expensive to produce small runs.
Technology difference behind large runs versus small is huge. You wouldn't 3D print 10,000 toys at $50 a pop, and likewise you sure as heck wouldn't commission a $10,000 injection mold to cast ten pieces.
So offset print boxes would need bulk which is something a scammer doesn't want. They would need to sell hundreds to recoup their inestment, and a 1:1 one-off replica is technically possible but would be more expensive than bidding on the legit item. Anybody on eBay with twenty boxes for Panic Restaurant or BB2 is asking for a butt-kicking. Anybody selling rare loot, check their sold listings. If they've sold ten Panics and fifteen BB2s, something's up...
This is without a doubt going to be the most unpopular opinion ever posted to this site, but when I think of all of the original boxes that have been destroyed or otherwise mutilated in the course of people being jackasses, I actually wish for someone to be able to make exact replicas to replace all of them. Like, if it's so absolutely perfect, every detail is authentic, what's really the point in caring if it's the real deal or not? It isn't the game that's being forged, it's the (arguably) most fragile part of the original experience.
Fake games really bug me, since everyone can just download these old titles free of charge from tons of websites. You can't download and make your own near perfect reproduction of a box without putting in a lot of effort, at least, as far as I'm concerned. This opinion might come from me just loving the boxes and the way they look on shelves more than I care if my collection is valued at anything over worthless.
Collecting isn't about the end result of having the item, it's about the journey of obtaining it. You can spend years searching for an item, getting up early and scouring resources to one day hold in your hand the exact item you have been looking for, in the condition you want, for a fair price and as you place it on your shelf, you stand back and reminisce about the amazing journey that took place in order to obtain it. Then your friend says, "Oh yeah, I have that game complete too, I just bought it off some guy online that makes them for $10."
Then you aren't friends any more.
Speak for yourself. You don't get to tell me why I collect. It's a personal choice, not an algebra equation.
Count me in the supposed 1%. If you want a repro box, then what do I care? Anyone who's butthurt about having paid hundreds of dollars for their original box shouldn't have any influence over someone else's decision.
Question, at some point in the future won't we be able to tell fakes by the different printing methods used? How does the comic and sports card hobby check fakes now? Used to be that you could tell how they were printed using a magnifying glass. Curious if that works/will work for game boxes.
As in most hobbies, by the time you can tell it's fake, it's too late and you've already been screwed. One way to get an idea if something's fishy, many modern inks are UV reactive, while boxes from that time period wern't. Shine it on a timewalk produced box and all your real snes boxes, and only the timewalk will glow.
Curious if this work on newer boxes from N64, Gameboy Advance, etc...?
It's not so much a matter of "modern inks", but rather a difference in process. TW used a digital press (and thus powdered toner, not liquid ink), while original SNES boxes were printed on an offset press (with ink).
You could still print SNES boxes on an offset press, with the same chip board, and the same gold spot color for the seal of quality and NOBODY would be able to tell the difference. Box making really hasn't changed all that much, and making them the same way that they were 20+ years ago is not at all difficult.
That's why I said this in the next post:"
I will say if it doesn't react it doesn't mean it's legit, most big printers use ink that doesn't react; it's mostly inkjet and some color laser printers. I honestly havent tested PS2\PS3 much (None for PS3), but I don't think they react."
I think we're going to reach a time where collectors won't buy a Near Mint box unless it's been graded or they know who they're buying from. Maybe it's also a case of the meek inheriting the earth; all the collectors who were okay with settling for worn boxes can be a bit more confident that what they own is legit.
This, absolutely, 100%. With a few minor exceptions for games that meant a lot to me growing up, I made it a point to put together a CIB collection with boxes that varied from 5/10-9/10 shape. I'm about 90% of the way there, and looking back, I'm really happy with that decision to not put a huge amount of emphasis on box/manual quality.
*nod* It helps in a couple of other ways too: You don't have to worry as much about getting trapped in a cycle of upgrades, or having to acquire extra protection for your boxes to prevent grade-shifts. I've noticed that in the past when I started thinking along those lines is was often beneficial to either sell the item outright or set it aside.
Now, for a buyer, that's a whole different story. I still feel like 99% of the time you'd be able to tell or at least be able to have enough doubt not to buy.
I also don't think of this stuff as any different from what custom makers do and such. Sure, you may be good at making custom artwork (consoles, boxes, games, etc.), but most of the time you're simply reproducing or ripping off a trademark that you have no right making money off of. There are people on this site that will gladly reproduce Nintendo decals, signs, and other Nintendo trademarked items.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clay-Fighter-Sculptors-Cut-Blockbuster-Exclusive-Nintendo-64-1998-/301943760909?hash=item464d40280d:g:MpgAAOSwubRXI7jq
I can tell the manual is a repo because it does not have the writing in the top right, but that box...I'm having trouble finding differences. This could pass as a real one if the colors faded and there were some creases. I need to finish my CIB collection quick!
I guess my point to all this is people people really need to start being on the look out for these and educate themselves about methods of how to authenticate paper based collectibles. This guy (before his listings were removed finally) was selling everything from Hagane boxes to Super Mario Kart, and where there's one cockroach you can see there usually a million more hiding in the walls. I know all the usual people will say they want them because originals are too expensive and that they'd never ever knowingly pass them off as real (just a guess, but I assume these are the same type that like to put giant spoilers on their civic's, or SS badges/decals on their V6 Camaros to go back to the car analogy), but it is absolutely inevitable these will continue to percolate through the market ending up in the hands of unsuspecting buyers.
In the future, Any minty box I see in the wild I am just going to assume its fake unless it comes from a trust worthy legit collector. If its super cheap like at a garage sale then chances are its legit and worth the risk.
Im glad I dont collect boxes.
In the future, Any minty box I see in the wild I am just going to assume its fake unless it comes from a trust worthy legit collector. If its super cheap like at a garage sale then chances are its legit and worth the risk.
I guess we all should post our collection pics as a proof!
^^And you supported his illegal behavior by buying his repro box.
Yes, this is something I certainly considered before doing, and honestly couldn't think of any other way to go about it. I've never bought a fake before as I was confident that I could tell the difference of one whether box, label, or cartridge when in hand. With these boxes and their matching cardboard I no longer had that confidence and needed to physically hold one to be sure. I guess the fact of the matter is whether we like it or not this kind of stuff is out there, and is here to stay. This guy may have had his listings removed from eBay, but I remember when people making fake labels or selling fake carts had theirs removed as well. Fast forward to today and eBay is littered with examples of each from sellers with feedback in the thousands. Still, all that being said while I'm not trying to stake out some moral high ground, I assure you I did not feel great making the purchase and have yet to decide whether to return it or not.
Im glad I dont collect boxes.
In the future, Any minty box I see in the wild I am just going to assume its fake unless it comes from a trust worthy legit collector. If its super cheap like at a garage sale then chances are its legit and worth the risk.
I guess we all should post our collection pics as a proof!
I mean for stuff I would be looking to buy for myself I trust everyone here has legit stuff