I've decided to sell my NES(s).
A couple years ago or so, I stumbled across a nice craigslist deal: 2 Nintendo's, about 30 games, and some controllers and cords for $125. At the time, I was ecstatic because I finally had a NES to keep and an NES to trade. Problem is, both systems don't work. I assume it's the pins.
With the AVS now on the market and a possible move coming up, I don't see much need to hang on to both systems. I'd like one for collecting purposes, a shelf piece if you will, but I don't need one right now.
The question is, should I sell them un-repaired, or make the effort to restore them? Is restoring them worth the hassle and cost?
Also, what can I expect to get for them via craigslist?
With the AVS now on the market and a possible move coming up, I don't see much need to hang on to both systems. I'd like one for collecting purposes, a shelf piece if you will, but I don't need one right now.
The question is, should I sell them un-repaired, or make the effort to restore them? Is restoring them worth the hassle and cost?
Also, what can I expect to get for them via craigslist?
Comments
The question is, should I sell them un-repaired, or make the effort to restore them? Is restoring them worth the hassle and cost?
You can diagnose it as the pins, pretty easily, by rebending them with a small screwdriver.
If that fixes it, upgrade them to new pins and resell the systems.
You can diagnose it as the pins, pretty easily, by rebending them with a small screwdriver.
If that fixes it, upgrade them to new pins and resell the systems.
If they're fixed by tweaking the pins, there's not really any need to replace them with new, most likely crappy, pins. Just tweak out the old ones to where they make a good connection again, clean them up and ship them out the door. Third party replacements would be a much nicer option if there were one or two easily identifiable versions which were known to work 100% of the time and not be total crap. Unfortunately, that's just no the case at the moment.
Yeah don't buy new pins to put in. They are garbage. Keep the OEM ones and do the boiling trick. There's plenty of videos on YouTube that give you instructions. I'm sure a working NES is an easier sell than a busted one. You did try cleaning the games first and making sure that wasn't the issue right?
It was the flashing screen/red light. I thought it was the pins, not sure.
Anyway, if it's as easy as y'all say, I'll give it a shot.
Yeah don't buy new pins to put in. They are garbage. Keep the OEM ones and do the boiling trick.
I got an extra 10 or 15 years out of my original pins after rebending them back in 2000, or so.
(that was before somebody came up with the boiling idea)
Started having issues with them again a couple years back, and used a set of replacement pins, rather than mess with the originals again.
Haven't had any problems, to speak of. (got them for free, though, so I don't know whether they're worth buying outright, or not)
Yeah don't buy new pins to put in. They are garbage. Keep the OEM ones and do the boiling trick.
I got an extra 10 or 15 years out of my original pins after rebending them back in 2000, or so.
(that was before somebody came up with the boiling idea)
Started having issues with them again a couple years back, and used a set of replacement pins, rather than mess with the originals again.
Haven't had any problems, to speak of. (got them for free, though, so I don't know whether they're worth buying outright, or not)
I'm sure some are built better than others. But the one I've used was really tight on the carts, and still wouldn't read the game every time. If the boil/bend works for ten+ years, that's a long time of not having to worry about it, once it starts crapping out again, do the quick fix and don't worry again for 10 years. I'd rather do that then spend money on new ones that you don't now will work well for sure
Yeah don't buy new pins to put in. They are garbage. Keep the OEM ones and do the boiling trick.
I got an extra 10 or 15 years out of my original pins after rebending them back in 2000, or so.
(that was before somebody came up with the boiling idea)
Started having issues with them again a couple years back, and used a set of replacement pins, rather than mess with the originals again.
Haven't had any problems, to speak of. (got them for free, though, so I don't know whether they're worth buying outright, or not)
I'm sure some are built better than others. But the one I've used was really tight on the carts, and still wouldn't read the game every time. If the boil/bend works for ten+ years, that's a long time of not having to worry about it, once it starts crapping out again, do the quick fix and don't worry again for 10 years. I'd rather do that then spend money on new ones that you don't now will work well for sure
I never see anyone mention this (and it runs directly counter to the theory that boiling relaxes the fatigued metal to return to the original position), but boiling actually makes the bottom part of the conector deform into an arch that adds pressure to most of the pins (the ones closest to the edges will get very little additional pressure). It's very obvious to me when I look at a boiled pin connector. The effect is a tightening of the whole connector and it probably lasts way longer than bending the pins alone.