I think everyone here would agree that the AVS is a much superior product, but this is $59 and comes with 30 games. The AVS is what, $200 with shipping? And you have no game to play...
So we cannot really compare these two options, they're different products for different audiences.
Added that there's nothing to preclude anyone from owning both.
I think everyone here would agree that the AVS is a much superior product, but this is $59 and comes with 30 games. The AVS is what, $200 with shipping? And you have no game to play...
So we cannot really compare these two options, they're different products for different audiences.
Added that there's nothing to preclude anyone from owning both.
Well i was going to wait for the price to go down, but just now saw they ran out of stock and the new price. *sigh* classic Nintendo, they've made this mistake alot before :b . I'm still upset about when they did it with the fire emblem fates se i really reealllyyyyy wanted to pre-order ;-;
Anyways, yeah the price has killed it for me. No way i'd buy it now.
New price? What you mean the $100+ on eBay prices? That's just scumbag scalpers.
Yeah that's what i meant, and i can't believe people are buying them for that much
There are lots of internal differences, but it's surprising just how swappable the parts are.
The board has the same "WCP" chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro.
Yeah I figured they had to update some parts of the board, but I would guess the internal differences are mostly cosmetic and not geometric? Or are there indeed very different parts or mechanics being used?
The board is a direct swap, but there are major differences. The A/B rubber piece no longer anchors on two posts and instead fits around the moulded button shafts. The shafts have changed from cylinders with slits cut for the alignment tabs and now have protruding rectangular shafts for the alignment tabs. The original anchor points are still there but they are slightly too large and the rectangular protrusions molded into the face part may interfere if used with the old style rubber (nothing a few strategic cuts couldn't fix).
The Start/Select rubber needs to be stretched to fit the anchor post. I think it also needed to be stretched to fit around the internal wall surrounding Start/Select.
The D-pad has a smaller nub in the middle and the hole in the rubber is smaller to match. The rubber is only anchored in one place more like the dogbone NES controller (original has two anchor holes). Putting this new rubber piece in an old shell is the hardest swap, but do-able. The single anchor hole is too small for either original position and the lip is too fat so you will see it overlapping the opposite post/anchor point. You could presumably notch it to fit but you'll also find that the lip's inner diameter is too small to fit around the D-pad's internal wall (yes, the lip is simultaneously too small and too large). You can stretch it over to fit and a couple slits should reduce strain so that it doesn't pop off, but you also have to cut a bigger hole in the center (or see if the D-pad plastic will swap with it).
The board and cord have all the same mount points and will swap. An original NES controller board can use the all-new shells, buttons, and rubber from the NES Classic Edition with no tweaks or modifications needed as long as it is all swapped together. I think you can swap the back shells. On a component level, the boards are completely different. The new controller uses the same custom WCP chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro where the original controller uses an off-the-shelf 4021 shift register to encode button input. It has to be this way so that it will work as a Classic Controller on Wii/Wii U. You can't just swap cables to use it with one or the other.
When I see these on clearance I will be stocking up!
Here's my question to you since you both have these devices and are hardware mod savvy, can you clip the end of an old and new controller, and rewire the cables so that an old controller can work with the new system? I'd give it a try but I don't have the controllers or the NES Classic.
I expect my niece would enjoy this thing. I don't really have much desire to get one for myself though, since I've got every game on this thing and a good working NES.
Here's my question to you since you both have these devices and are hardware mod savvy, can you clip the end of an old and new controller, and rewire the cables so that an old controller can work with the new system? I'd give it a try but I don't have the controllers or the NES Classic.
There are lots of internal differences, but it's surprising just how swappable the parts are.
The board has the same "WCP" chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro.
Yeah I figured they had to update some parts of the board, but I would guess the internal differences are mostly cosmetic and not geometric? Or are there indeed very different parts or mechanics being used?
The board is a direct swap, but there are major differences. The A/B rubber piece no longer anchors on two posts and instead fits around the moulded button shafts. The shafts have changed from cylinders with slits cut for the alignment tabs and now have protruding rectangular shafts for the alignment tabs. The original anchor points are still there but they are slightly too large and the rectangular protrusions molded into the face part may interfere if used with the old style rubber (nothing a few strategic cuts couldn't fix).
The Start/Select rubber needs to be stretched to fit the anchor post. I think it also needed to be stretched to fit around the internal wall surrounding Start/Select.
The D-pad has a smaller nub in the middle and the hole in the rubber is smaller to match. The rubber is only anchored in one place more like the dogbone NES controller (original has two anchor holes). Putting this new rubber piece in an old shell is the hardest swap, but do-able. The single anchor hole is too small for either original position and the lip is too fat so you will see it overlapping the opposite post/anchor point. You could presumably notch it to fit but you'll also find that the lip's inner diameter is too small to fit around the D-pad's internal wall (yes, the lip is simultaneously too small and too large). You can stretch it over to fit and a couple slits should reduce strain so that it doesn't pop off, but you also have to cut a bigger hole in the center (or see if the D-pad plastic will swap with it).
The board and cord have all the same mount points and will swap. An original NES controller board can use the all-new shells, buttons, and rubber from the NES Classic Edition with no tweaks or modifications needed as long as it is all swapped together. I think you can swap the back shells. On a component level, the boards are completely different. The new controller uses the same custom WCP chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro where the original controller uses an off-the-shelf 4021 shift register to encode button input. It has to be this way so that it will work as a Classic Controller on Wii/Wii U. You can't just swap cables to use it with one or the other.
When I see these on clearance I will be stocking up!
Here's my question to you since you both have these devices and are hardware mod savvy, can you clip the end of an old and new controller, and rewire the cables so that an old controller can work with the new system? I'd give it a try but I don't have the controllers or the NES Classic.
Unfortunately, no. Well, not unless the Wii Classic Controller Pro had compatible signaling with the extra functions implemented in a way that allowed for the same interchangeability and, even then, I doubt it. There's no reason to unless you had some reason to avoid using the new board inside an old controller, and I can't think of any (works great).
All the videos of the defective Nyko wireless NES CE controller show the menu scrolling left forever, which tells me that they are not receiving a center value for the left analog stick. Coordinates 0,0 would simulate up and left, and that's the same reason the Ultra Everdrive 64 scrolls forever if you unplug the controller. Clearly, the NES CE intentionally supports the extra functions of an analog-capable Wii Classic Controller Pro (Home button duplicates the console's Reset button), so it probably reads the joystick values and the official controller has to return centered values for them even though it doesn't have them. This is why it has the same WCP chip inside. Nyko's wireless receiver was almost certainly engineered as a wireless Wii Remote dongle for unofficial wireless clone controllers and nunchucks and their wireless controller neglects sending it centered values for the non-existent analog sticks. Knowing this, even if Nintendo had used reverse-compatible signaling like they did for the SNES, an NES controller would likely not be forward-compatible since it, too, can't simulate centered analog sticks. Thesoftware would have to be written to detect it and that wouldn't make sense when Nintendo doesn't make an adapter and the controller doesn't use classic hardware.
You can swap the original faceplate, buttons, and rubber to the new board/cord if you want to use authentic buttons. There's really no advantage to a cord swap. As you can see in the video, Ichinisan had no trouble using it the reverse way (new buttons/shell on classic board). I see no reason to think the PCB isn't just as good. If I can detect any difference at all, it's with the plastic buttons themselves, which wouldn't be a factor in that scenario. Even those issues are relatively small and may just be my imagination: The A and B look a little orange instead of red and the smaller D-pad nub/pivot seems to make it easier hit diagonals... even accidentally. Either that, or I suck (less precise) and that's why Kirby keeps inflating to float when I'm just moving around.
My controller isn't responding as well as I would like. Maybe I need to break it in but I find it going up when pressing right on the dpad.
So it's not just me! Kirby won't stop taking off when I try to turn around!
Ichinisan complained about the same thing. It requires more precision on the player's part. It's almost certainly because the D-pad nub/pivot is smaller so it's an easy change if you have old parts around. I'm pretty sure the change was intentional to make diagonals easier and improve ergonomics. Some people probably prefer it this way... fans of the Genesis/Megadrive D-pad, for example.
I will try to get a controller and put my old board in the new shell + buttons + rubbers. From what I understand, this requires no modification at all, right? Only if you add the new rubber pads to the old shell?
Because I once got two controllers on eBay and one of them was in terrible shape, so I threw away the shell and used a really crappy Chinese-made controller that didn't work well and put the real board inside. It's been working well, but it still feels cheap and the rubber pads are the Chinese ones. This can give it back its original glory!
As for the console, look on eBay... I mean, it's one thing to buy and and list it there for a crazy price, but we all know that it doesn't mean it's worth that much. But look at the "Sold Items" people are actually stupid enough to pay $200 - 300 for this console... Nintendo never said this was a limited run! They actually said on Facebook that they'll have enough for everyone for the holidays. These probably cost very little to manufacture and Nintendo will most likely keep making them for several months until the demand slows down.
I don't need this, but if in a few months they discount it (it's $90 in Canada) I may grab one.
Correct. The old board/cord will fit into the new controller for all-new mechanical and external parts that will work just as well with your original NES as the new controller works with the NES CE. If we are right about the D-pad difference and you don't care for it, you can use a hole punch in the center of the rubber pad and swap your original D-pad plastic. I just stretched the rubber to fit during my test and it worked great but I'd cut it for long-term use so it doesn't try to push out/away from the D-pad when it slips off the nub/pivot.
Comments
wouldn't the AVS be a much better deal?
I think everyone here would agree that the AVS is a much superior product, but this is $59 and comes with 30 games. The AVS is what, $200 with shipping? And you have no game to play...
So we cannot really compare these two options, they're different products for different audiences.
Added that there's nothing to preclude anyone from owning both.
wouldn't the AVS be a much better deal?
I think everyone here would agree that the AVS is a much superior product, but this is $59 and comes with 30 games. The AVS is what, $200 with shipping? And you have no game to play...
So we cannot really compare these two options, they're different products for different audiences.
Added that there's nothing to preclude anyone from owning both.
Does AVS have a controller?
It's actually possible the latency comes
from my TV; even though Game Mode is enabled. I'll have to try setting my Hi-Def NES to 720p to compare.
The controller definitely has a greater tendency to activate diagonals when I'm trying to hold one direction. That's frustrating.
Originally posted by: Astor Reinhardt
Originally posted by: TiredKorok
Well i was going to wait for the price to go down, but just now saw they ran out of stock and the new price. *sigh* classic Nintendo, they've made this mistake alot before :b . I'm still upset about when they did it with the fire emblem fates se i really reealllyyyyy wanted to pre-order ;-;
Anyways, yeah the price has killed it for me. No way i'd buy it now.
New price? What you mean the $100+ on eBay prices? That's just scumbag scalpers.
Yeah that's what i meant, and i can't believe people are buying them for that much
There are lots of internal differences, but it's surprising just how swappable the parts are.
The board has the same "WCP" chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro.
Yeah I figured they had to update some parts of the board, but I would guess the internal differences are mostly cosmetic and not geometric? Or are there indeed very different parts or mechanics being used?
The Start/Select rubber needs to be stretched to fit the anchor post. I think it also needed to be stretched to fit around the internal wall surrounding Start/Select.
The D-pad has a smaller nub in the middle and the hole in the rubber is smaller to match. The rubber is only anchored in one place more like the dogbone NES controller (original has two anchor holes). Putting this new rubber piece in an old shell is the hardest swap, but do-able. The single anchor hole is too small for either original position and the lip is too fat so you will see it overlapping the opposite post/anchor point. You could presumably notch it to fit but you'll also find that the lip's inner diameter is too small to fit around the D-pad's internal wall (yes, the lip is simultaneously too small and too large). You can stretch it over to fit and a couple slits should reduce strain so that it doesn't pop off, but you also have to cut a bigger hole in the center (or see if the D-pad plastic will swap with it).
The board and cord have all the same mount points and will swap. An original NES controller board can use the all-new shells, buttons, and rubber from the NES Classic Edition with no tweaks or modifications needed as long as it is all swapped together. I think you can swap the back shells. On a component level, the boards are completely different. The new controller uses the same custom WCP chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro where the original controller uses an off-the-shelf 4021 shift register to encode button input. It has to be this way so that it will work as a Classic Controller on Wii/Wii U. You can't just swap cables to use it with one or the other.
When I see these on clearance I will be stocking up!
Here's my question to you since you both have these devices and are hardware mod savvy, can you clip the end of an old and new controller, and rewire the cables so that an old controller can work with the new system? I'd give it a try but I don't have the controllers or the NES Classic.
Here's my question to you since you both have these devices and are hardware mod savvy, can you clip the end of an old and new controller, and rewire the cables so that an old controller can work with the new system? I'd give it a try but I don't have the controllers or the NES Classic.
It's generally more complicated than that.
There are lots of internal differences, but it's surprising just how swappable the parts are.
The board has the same "WCP" chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro.
Yeah I figured they had to update some parts of the board, but I would guess the internal differences are mostly cosmetic and not geometric? Or are there indeed very different parts or mechanics being used?
The Start/Select rubber needs to be stretched to fit the anchor post. I think it also needed to be stretched to fit around the internal wall surrounding Start/Select.
The D-pad has a smaller nub in the middle and the hole in the rubber is smaller to match. The rubber is only anchored in one place more like the dogbone NES controller (original has two anchor holes). Putting this new rubber piece in an old shell is the hardest swap, but do-able. The single anchor hole is too small for either original position and the lip is too fat so you will see it overlapping the opposite post/anchor point. You could presumably notch it to fit but you'll also find that the lip's inner diameter is too small to fit around the D-pad's internal wall (yes, the lip is simultaneously too small and too large). You can stretch it over to fit and a couple slits should reduce strain so that it doesn't pop off, but you also have to cut a bigger hole in the center (or see if the D-pad plastic will swap with it).
The board and cord have all the same mount points and will swap. An original NES controller board can use the all-new shells, buttons, and rubber from the NES Classic Edition with no tweaks or modifications needed as long as it is all swapped together. I think you can swap the back shells. On a component level, the boards are completely different. The new controller uses the same custom WCP chip as the Wii Classic Controller Pro where the original controller uses an off-the-shelf 4021 shift register to encode button input. It has to be this way so that it will work as a Classic Controller on Wii/Wii U. You can't just swap cables to use it with one or the other.
When I see these on clearance I will be stocking up!
Here's my question to you since you both have these devices and are hardware mod savvy, can you clip the end of an old and new controller, and rewire the cables so that an old controller can work with the new system? I'd give it a try but I don't have the controllers or the NES Classic.
Unfortunately, no. Well, not unless the Wii Classic Controller Pro had compatible signaling with the extra functions implemented in a way that allowed for the same interchangeability and, even then, I doubt it. There's no reason to unless you had some reason to avoid using the new board inside an old controller, and I can't think of any (works great).
All the videos of the defective Nyko wireless NES CE controller show the menu scrolling left forever, which tells me that they are not receiving a center value for the left analog stick. Coordinates 0,0 would simulate up and left, and that's the same reason the Ultra Everdrive 64 scrolls forever if you unplug the controller. Clearly, the NES CE intentionally supports the extra functions of an analog-capable Wii Classic Controller Pro (Home button duplicates the console's Reset button), so it probably reads the joystick values and the official controller has to return centered values for them even though it doesn't have them. This is why it has the same WCP chip inside. Nyko's wireless receiver was almost certainly engineered as a wireless Wii Remote dongle for unofficial wireless clone controllers and nunchucks and their wireless controller neglects sending it centered values for the non-existent analog sticks. Knowing this, even if Nintendo had used reverse-compatible signaling like they did for the SNES, an NES controller would likely not be forward-compatible since it, too, can't simulate centered analog sticks. Thesoftware would have to be written to detect it and that wouldn't make sense when Nintendo doesn't make an adapter and the controller doesn't use classic hardware.
You can swap the original faceplate, buttons, and rubber to the new board/cord if you want to use authentic buttons. There's really no advantage to a cord swap. As you can see in the video, Ichinisan had no trouble using it the reverse way (new buttons/shell on classic board). I see no reason to think the PCB isn't just as good. If I can detect any difference at all, it's with the plastic buttons themselves, which wouldn't be a factor in that scenario. Even those issues are relatively small and may just be my imagination: The A and B look a little orange instead of red and the smaller D-pad nub/pivot seems to make it easier hit diagonals... even accidentally. Either that, or I suck (less precise) and that's why Kirby keeps inflating to float when I'm just moving around.
My controller isn't responding as well as I would like. Maybe I need to break it in but I find it going up when pressing right on the dpad.
So it's not just me! Kirby won't stop taking off when I try to turn around!
Ichinisan complained about the same thing. It requires more precision on the player's part. It's almost certainly because the D-pad nub/pivot is smaller so it's an easy change if you have old parts around. I'm pretty sure the change was intentional to make diagonals easier and improve ergonomics. Some people probably prefer it this way... fans of the Genesis/Megadrive D-pad, for example.
I will try to get a controller and put my old board in the new shell + buttons + rubbers. From what I understand, this requires no modification at all, right? Only if you add the new rubber pads to the old shell?
Because I once got two controllers on eBay and one of them was in terrible shape, so I threw away the shell and used a really crappy Chinese-made controller that didn't work well and put the real board inside. It's been working well, but it still feels cheap and the rubber pads are the Chinese ones. This can give it back its original glory!
As for the console, look on eBay... I mean, it's one thing to buy and and list it there for a crazy price, but we all know that it doesn't mean it's worth that much. But look at the "Sold Items" people are actually stupid enough to pay $200 - 300 for this console... Nintendo never said this was a limited run! They actually said on Facebook that they'll have enough for everyone for the holidays. These probably cost very little to manufacture and Nintendo will most likely keep making them for several months until the demand slows down.
I don't need this, but if in a few months they discount it (it's $90 in Canada) I may grab one.
Correct. The old board/cord will fit into the new controller for all-new mechanical and external parts that will work just as well with your original NES as the new controller works with the NES CE. If we are right about the D-pad difference and you don't care for it, you can use a hole punch in the center of the rubber pad and swap your original D-pad plastic. I just stretched the rubber to fit during my test and it worked great but I'd cut it for long-term use so it doesn't try to push out/away from the D-pad when it slips off the nub/pivot.