Wavy Lines on SNES

oleSchoololeSchool
in Gamer's Gauntlet
So I've picked up a SNES at a garage sale.



Ever since I played it, its had wavy lines running through it. I remember that as a kid so it wasn't that big of an issue. Until I plugged my NES into the same TV and it was solid without a single wavy line in it and I was blown away.



So, here are some facts to help ya'll help me:
  • SNES is hooked up to HDTV (Samsung LCD)
  • I tried SNES with two different cables, one composite, one component, same problem with wavy lines on both (so its not the cables)
  • I've opened up my SNES (its not a 1 chip) and I've cleaned it thoroughly and verified that it has the internal RF shields over the circuit board
  • I checked the power supply, it was a 3rd party one, running at 9v 750mA instead of the 10v 850mA (could this be the issue?)
Other than the power supply, is the SNES I have just getting old and putting out a bad picture or something else? How can I fix this?





 

Comments

  • 0xero00xero0
    It's usually a power supply issue.
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Okay, I got one on order from Amazon. Should get here in about a week.



    If it still has wavy lines after replacing the power supply, what else should I try?
  • retrofixesretrofixes
    It's usually the generic power supplies. It will cause that issue on many of the classic consoles. Stick with OEM adapters and see if that helps.

    It took me years to find quality aftermarket (non wavy) power adapters for my store. Most on the market are garbage.
  • quest4nesquest4nes
    Wavy green scan lines are a 3rd party power supply issue. If you get an original one the problem will go away
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Well the power supply finally came in today. I hooked it up a little while ago, anxious as ever, but no dice... The waves are different, they are more vertical, but just as bad.

    I hooked my Sega Genesis to the same TV and same spot on the same power strip, no wavy lines, so its not the TV or the power strip. I then hooked up the SNES to a different TV in a different room using different AV cables, still got wavy lines.





    So its the SNES??...

    How the heck can I fix it?



    Tried to upload a quick video but got error (not sure what I did wrong). Anyway, this link is to my dropbox where I uploaded a quick 3 second video (its a little hard to see the lines), but they are REALLY bad in person.

     
  • JdurgJdurg
    I would see about looking into a capacitor replacement. That type of wavyness is generally caused by capacitors starting to go in the power circuit of the board. Generally the large filter capacitor.



    This site here has a list of the capacitors and the map of them as well. https://console5.com/wiki/SNES
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Thanks for the link, I got lost very quickly though. I've never done anything like that. I did notice the model numbers. I'm assuming I need to match my non-1chip to what's listed under the capacitor section. Past that, I'm a bit lost.



    For example, how hard is this and what tools are needed?

    Has anyone done this on the forums that can give me any tips or pointers please.
  • PikkonPikkon
    I had the same problem,replace the caps.



    Do you know anyone who can solder?
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    I do, just need to borrow a kit from a buddy this weekend.



    So I opened up the SNES and its a 1992 SNS-CPU-GPM-01 type motherboard.

    According to that link you sent me, I need the following capacitors:



    C57 220uf 6.3v

    C59 220uf 6.3v

    C61 10uf 16v

    C62 2.2uf 50v

    C63 33uf 25v

    C64 33uf 25v

    C65 10uf 16v

    C66 10uf 16v

    C67 1000uf 25v (Not present on North American units)

    C73 47uf 16v



    But a few questions. The links above it say Purchase these parts as a kit (leaded) and the other is (surface mount).

    Whats the difference, pros / cons between leaded and surface mount kits?



    Also, do these kits come with all those caps required / listed?



    Thanks!
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    So I got the solder kit from my buddy. I'm waiting on the parts to come in. I ordered both the SMD, and the leaded caps since it was only $10 for both packages.



    I'll probably just replace the caps on the board with the same type of cap that's already there now that I think about it.



    Hey Pikkon, any suggestions, tips, lessons learned from when you did it that I should know of? Thanks!
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Quick update. Got the capacitor kit today. Hopefully this weekend I can solder in the new ones and report the findings for anyone following the thread.
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Well I'm in a world of poo, lol.



    So I got to soldering and noticed a two things:

    1) The leaded cap package set came with the correct uf but incorrect (slightly higher) voltages. Not an issue but something to note.

    2) Some of the caps in the list of ones to replace are leaded, some are SMD.

    3) Because the SMD cap package didn't have all the necessary caps, I used the leaded package.



    So I replaced all the caps except C65 and C66.

    They were one of the SMD type caps, and they gave me some trouble, unlike the other SMD caps.

    I was able to get the leaded caps soldered on the other SMD spots fine except these two. Maybe the board was old or whatever but on both of them when I desoldered the old caps, the feet/ base lifted off the board!! Now I have nothing to solder the new leaded cap too!



    Any suggestions or am I screwed
  • IchinisanIchinisan
    Probably still possible to run wires to wherever those damaged traces lead and bypass them.



    Pics?
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    I'll take some pics later today and post. I still can't believe the solder pads lifted from the board
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Here is the pic. C59 is the resistor east of P4 and just south of C65 and C66. I'm saying this because as I was cleaning the label letters next to the caps wore off too. 

    So the pads for C65 and the west pad for C66 are the ones that tore off.



     
  • rsnbaursnbau
    I've tore up some of the board before on SNES's by accident, usually prying out old power supply's. Sometimes you can scrape up some of the surrounding area to get contact again with your solder, but with a cap you are probably better off using a wire bypass. Oh, and about the capacitors, as long as the uf is correct and the voltage is equal to or greater than the original capacitor then you are good. Those voltage values are for the maximum voltage they can handle, so running a smaller voltage through them is just fine. Also, check to make sure you've got the positive and negative sides matched up. I didn't realize the direction they face mattered when I first started putting them in.
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Thanks for the reply and explanation, that's good info about the caps. As far as the caps, I get what your saying, but I'd need some help. For example, where in the "surrounding area" specifically should I solder the caps too? Can ya draw or highlight it on the pic I uploaded?

    Same for the bypass, where and how and what gauge wire, etc. Sorry just never done that before. I can solder (not too good but ok), but that's about it with circuit boards haha.
  • oleSchoololeSchool
    Well, decided to dive in after watching a video on YouTube about soldering to a board with solder pads missing, and it was pretty simple really.

    You basically follow the trace lines to where they connect in an open area on the board. (The trace lines connect all kinds of things to each other. They also connect the solder pads to other areas on the board). Just use an exacto knife and scratch off the top coating on a lil spot of the board to expose the copper that is underneath. Then solder to that spot. I picked up some 22 gauge hookup/jumper/regular/bypass wire because one of the spots was pretty far away from the solder pad.

    Anyways, very simple, just have to be patient and use a lil common sense.



    Btw, results were awesome, screen is bright and clear and has 0 waves, love it !!
  • JdurgJdurg
    Awesome! Sorry I didn't respond to your questions earlier. I had forgotten that I had posted in here. Good job on looking for videos on YouTube. That's basically how I learned how to solder and work with circuit boards. Repaired an arcade monitor chassis (Wells-Gardner K7000) that had similar wavy patterns as your SNES did which is why I suggested a capacitor replacement.



    Those SMD ones are a pain in the ass though. The Ultra HDMI mod I ordered will really test out my surface mount and small chip soldering skills. Glad I have had plenty of garbage boards to practice on.
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