I wanted to add about another modification I made to my Kiosk. I swapped the original power strip for this one here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
Yeah it is several inches bigger. I actually mounted it on the steel uprights in the very back, I'll try to snap a pic and post it
Hey everyone. I specifically joined this site just for my WiiU kiosk and was hoping someone could help me out. I have my lynx box for my LEDs but I don't have the power cord. I know it's 12 volt but that's pretty much it so I'm at a complete loss. Can anyone help me out (links) as to where I could buy a power cord that could work with the box?
Hey everyone. I specifically joined this site just for my WiiU kiosk and was hoping someone could help me out. I have my lynx box for my LEDs but I don't have the power cord. I know it's 12 volt but that's pretty much it so I'm at a complete loss. Can anyone help me out (links) as to where I could buy a power cord that could work with the box?
You can probably get away with a center positive 12v 2a adapter. The stock one is 5 amps probably with the mindset that they were going to use 12v fans. I have tested this exact one at the plug is a perfect fit. It works great and has extra power (6 amps) in case you want to plug in extra 12v things.
i will see if i can mak a copy of my key Andy. If i can i will send it to you for free
There's just one problem with that,all the keys are different. I found this out when trying to make a 3d model of one of these things so I can just 3d print it. Also, just by comparing them on ebay, I can clearly see that each of them are different.
Thank you. Also I'm sorry, the thread was overwhelming and I don't know how to use the search feature. Sorry for that, hopefully I can figure out this site a little more and be part of the community(
Ok, well one of the gamestops that I called finally got back to me tonight, and said that I could pick it up whenever I wanted. The only issue is that they kept the monitor. The guy was wicked cool, but said that they had to keep it and use it in the switch kiosk they're going to receive. Has anyone heard anything about that? He said that all other parts (minus the console) are included. The thing is that it's a 3 hour drive one way to get it. What do you guys think? Is it worth it without the monitor? How hard is it to install a different TV in it's place? Would I need the exact monitor that Nintendo originally used in this, or could I just pick up another TV of the same size and use that?
Ok, well one of the gamestops that I called finally got back to me tonight, and said that I could pick it up whenever I wanted. The only issue is that they kept the monitor. The guy was wicked cool, but said that they had to keep it and use it in the switch kiosk they're going to receive. Has anyone heard anything about that? He said that all other parts (minus the console) are included. The thing is that it's a 3 hour drive one way to get it. What do you guys think? Is it worth it without the monitor? How hard is it to install a different TV in it's place? Would I need the exact monitor that Nintendo originally used in this, or could I just pick up another TV of the same size and use that?
I would say go for it. There are folks in this thread that have replaced the TV with a $180 TV from wally mart.
And the part about using the screen with the switch kiosk is 100% not true.
Something happened with my Kiosk, not sure how to fix this It was displaying perfectly, and then I held down the power button for 5 seconds and it went to this. I can still use the input and volume buttons, and power button still turns it off, but the input seems like it won't move off of USB? I tried leaving it unplugged for 2 hours hoping it would reset but no such luck.. any information would be helpful!!
Something happened with my Kiosk, not sure how to fix this It was displaying perfectly, and then I held down the power button for 5 seconds and it went to this. I can still use the input and volume buttons, and power button still turns it off, but the input seems like it won't move off of USB? I tried leaving it unplugged for 2 hours hoping it would reset but no such luck.. any information would be helpful!!
You have two possible options, one, try holding down the input button, the input should switch after 5-10 seconds.
Option 2 (only if you have an android phone or access to a real remote). Basically, you will need the following, an android device capible of sending IR signals and access to the google play store. Download the "Anymote Smart remote app" and set the remote to "Element ELCHS262". From there, find an IR reciever like the one in the link. From there, click the channel 3 button (everything is mapped completely wrong) and that will change the input. Complicated but it will work. Using this method, I was able to change the brightness and picture settings so you will be able to do this stuff to work.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
Something happened with my Kiosk, not sure how to fix this It was displaying perfectly, and then I held down the power button for 5 seconds and it went to this. I can still use the input and volume buttons, and power button still turns it off, but the input seems like it won't move off of USB? I tried leaving it unplugged for 2 hours hoping it would reset but no such luck.. any information would be helpful!!
You have two possible options, one, try holding down the input button, the input should switch after 5-10 seconds.
Option 2 (only if you have an android phone or access to a real remote). Basically, you will need the following, an android device capible of sending IR signals and access to the google play store. Download the "Anymote Smart remote app" and set the remote to "Element ELCHS262". From there, find an IR reciever like the one in the link. From there, click the channel 3 button (everything is mapped completely wrong) and that will change the input. Complicated but it will work. Using this method, I was able to change the brightness and picture settings so you will be able to do this stuff to work.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
speaking of retropie, heres another thing. When I press the reset button (hooked up to the pi of course) it changes the signal to the pi. So maybe there's something to it? The reset button is just hooked up to the "run" terminals. This may be a solution.
Also, I am really sad, I just noticed a stuck pixle on my lcd . I cannot unsee it now...
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
speaking of retropie, heres another thing. When I press the reset button (hooked up to the pi of course) it changes the signal to the pi. So maybe there's something to it? The reset button is just hooked up to the "run" terminals. This may be a solution.
Also, I am really sad, I just noticed a stuck pixle on my lcd . I cannot unsee it now...
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
speaking of retropie, heres another thing. When I press the reset button (hooked up to the pi of course) it changes the signal to the pi. So maybe there's something to it? The reset button is just hooked up to the "run" terminals. This may be a solution.
Also, I am really sad, I just noticed a stuck pixle on my lcd . I cannot unsee it now...
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
Do you have something plugged into the USB on the tv?
I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
Im finding it difficult to belive these tvs would have survived years at gamestops across the country if this was an issue. These things werent turned off with the button by gamestop employees. Im sure they flipped a breaker, a wall power switch or just unplugged them when the store was closed for the evening.
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
So I just tried that, and it does.. something. It recognizes that the Pi is being reset, and the screen flashes, but then goes immediately back to that menu screen. And on top of that, after I hold down the power button to get the screen to go black, it wont turn off at all afterwards. So it's like it's trying to display the input but can't? So maybe my issue isn't that it's on the wrong output, it maybe it just confused and can't output?? And no, Han2, I don't have the USB plugged into anything. In fact, It displays the menu screen when I have nothing plugged in at all.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
Im finding it difficult to belive these tvs would have survived years at gamestops across the country if this was an issue. These things werent turned off with the button by gamestop employees. Im sure they flipped a breaker, a wall power switch or just unplugged them when the store was closed for the evening.
Mine left it on overnight lol. They would never turn it off. Regardless, its better to do it that way, mainly because it can run any close processes and cleanly shut down so that you don't get the same problems like this. The issue I had with brightness settings was caused by flipping the breaker...
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
So I just tried that, and it does.. something. It recognizes that the Pi is being reset, and the screen flashes, but then goes immediately back to that menu screen. And on top of that, after I hold down the power button to get the screen to go black, it wont turn off at all afterwards. So it's like it's trying to display the input but can't? So maybe my issue isn't that it's on the wrong output, it maybe it just confused and can't output?? And no, Han2, I don't have the USB plugged into anything. In fact, It displays the menu screen when I have nothing plugged in at all.
Just for giggles and such, unplug the ethernet plug that connects the io to the tv. maybe one of the buttons is broken?
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
So I just tried that, and it does.. something. It recognizes that the Pi is being reset, and the screen flashes, but then goes immediately back to that menu screen. And on top of that, after I hold down the power button to get the screen to go black, it wont turn off at all afterwards. So it's like it's trying to display the input but can't? So maybe my issue isn't that it's on the wrong output, it maybe it just confused and can't output?? And no, Han2, I don't have the USB plugged into anything. In fact, It displays the menu screen when I have nothing plugged in at all.
Just for giggles and such, unplug the ethernet plug that connects the io to the tv. maybe one of the buttons is broken?
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
You dont need a security kit to do that unless... Did they screw in your monitor bezel?
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
You dont need a security kit to do that unless... Did they screw in your monitor bezel?
I'm stumped. How do I access the monitor inputs? the bezel seems pretty tightly secured down with a round bolt
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
You dont need a security kit to do that unless... Did they screw in your monitor bezel?
I'm stumped. How do I access the monitor inputs? the bezel seems pretty tightly secured down with a round bolt
the bezzle is secure and tight, then it is screwed in for some reason. on the back of the kiosk, on the rightmost and leftmost edge of the back, you should see 4 screws, two on each side. If they are not populated (you just see holes where screws should be) then you can remove the bezzle. Do this by lifting up and toward you on the bezzle part.
Round bolts on the back? I don't think anyone here has reported their bezzles being screwed in yet...
I'm stumped. How do I access the monitor inputs? the bezel seems pretty tightly secured down with a round bolt
the bezzle is secure and tight, then it is screwed in for some reason. on the back of the kiosk, on the rightmost and leftmost edge of the back, you should see 4 screws, two on each side. If they are not populated (you just see holes where screws should be) then you can remove the bezzle. Do this by lifting up and toward you on the bezzle part.
Round bolts on the back? I don't think anyone here has reported their bezzles being screwed in yet...
Sorry, I meant the painted round bolt on the side (see photo). Maybe that can stay there. I do have the screw holes populated, and it does indeed seem like I need that security bit to get it off, unless something is going way over my head here. Here's a shot of what I'm looking at.
Sorry, I meant the painted round bolt on the side (see photo). Maybe that can stay there. I do have the screw holes populated, and it does indeed seem like I need that security bit to get it off, unless something is going way over my head here. Here's a shot of what I'm looking at.
Well shit, that thing is screwed in. I'll be damned. Alright, I guess you are going to need to get a security bit lol. I would recommend just getting a whole security bit set, I use mine all the time because this is the kind of projects I do. Harbor frieght has some good deals. Be sure to get back to us on this issue so we can document a solution.
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
Here ya go, I put a self tapping screw into the metal uprights and hung it on them in the back. Saves space on the shelves and just reach back and power down the lights and fan with ease.
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
Here ya go, I put a self tapping screw into the metal uprights and hung it on them in the back. Saves space on the shelves and just reach back and power down the lights and fan with ease.
I might put a second power strip right in the same place. I havent decided whats going inside my cabinet yet other than "some retro consoles" Probably a pi as well. There is tons of room in there once you get the power and LED wires out of the way.
Comments
I wanted to add about another modification I made to my Kiosk. I swapped the original power strip for this one here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
I wanted to add about another modification I made to my Kiosk. I swapped the original power strip for this one here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HTQAK8/ref=oh_aui_deta...
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
Yeah it is several inches bigger. I actually mounted it on the steel uprights in the very back, I'll try to snap a pic and post it
Hey everyone. I specifically joined this site just for my WiiU kiosk and was hoping someone could help me out. I have my lynx box for my LEDs but I don't have the power cord. I know it's 12 volt but that's pretty much it so I'm at a complete loss. Can anyone help me out (links) as to where I could buy a power cord that could work with the box?
You can probably get away with a center positive 12v 2a adapter. The stock one is 5 amps probably with the mindset that they were going to use 12v fans. I have tested this exact one at the plug is a perfect fit. It works great and has extra power (6 amps) in case you want to plug in extra 12v things.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZZY28M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That being said mine is going in a dark area and the LEDs are too bright. I used a 9v adapter and I like the results much better.
By the way. All this has been discussed in this thread before. Use the seach feature next time.
i will see if i can mak a copy of my key Andy. If i can i will send it to you for free
There's just one problem with that,all the keys are different. I found this out when trying to make a 3d model of one of these things so I can just 3d print it. Also, just by comparing them on ebay, I can clearly see that each of them are different.
Thank you. Also I'm sorry, the thread was overwhelming and I don't know how to use the search feature. Sorry for that, hopefully I can figure out this site a little more and be part of the community(
Ok, well one of the gamestops that I called finally got back to me tonight, and said that I could pick it up whenever I wanted. The only issue is that they kept the monitor. The guy was wicked cool, but said that they had to keep it and use it in the switch kiosk they're going to receive. Has anyone heard anything about that? He said that all other parts (minus the console) are included. The thing is that it's a 3 hour drive one way to get it. What do you guys think? Is it worth it without the monitor? How hard is it to install a different TV in it's place? Would I need the exact monitor that Nintendo originally used in this, or could I just pick up another TV of the same size and use that?
I would say go for it. There are folks in this thread that have replaced the TV with a $180 TV from wally mart.
And the part about using the screen with the switch kiosk is 100% not true.
Something happened with my Kiosk, not sure how to fix this
You have two possible options, one, try holding down the input button, the input should switch after 5-10 seconds.
Option 2 (only if you have an android phone or access to a real remote). Basically, you will need the following, an android device capible of sending IR signals and access to the google play store. Download the "Anymote Smart remote app" and set the remote to "Element ELCHS262". From there, find an IR reciever like the one in the link. From there, click the channel 3 button (everything is mapped completely wrong) and that will change the input. Complicated but it will work. Using this method, I was able to change the brightness and picture settings so you will be able to do this stuff to work.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
IR RecieverL: https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Receiver-Extender-Extension-Single/dp/B01LPPF0SK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1488342806&sr=1-3&keywords=ir+receiver
Something happened with my Kiosk, not sure how to fix this
You have two possible options, one, try holding down the input button, the input should switch after 5-10 seconds.
Option 2 (only if you have an android phone or access to a real remote). Basically, you will need the following, an android device capible of sending IR signals and access to the google play store. Download the "Anymote Smart remote app" and set the remote to "Element ELCHS262". From there, find an IR reciever like the one in the link. From there, click the channel 3 button (everything is mapped completely wrong) and that will change the input. Complicated but it will work. Using this method, I was able to change the brightness and picture settings so you will be able to do this stuff to work.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
IR RecieverL: https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-R...
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
speaking of retropie, heres another thing. When I press the reset button (hooked up to the pi of course) it changes the signal to the pi. So maybe there's something to it? The reset button is just hooked up to the "run" terminals. This may be a solution.
Also, I am really sad, I just noticed a stuck pixle on my lcd . I cannot unsee it now...
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
speaking of retropie, heres another thing. When I press the reset button (hooked up to the pi of course) it changes the signal to the pi. So maybe there's something to it? The reset button is just hooked up to the "run" terminals. This may be a solution.
Also, I am really sad, I just noticed a stuck pixle on my lcd . I cannot unsee it now...
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
Thanks for your response. The input button just keeps the input menu flashing on my screen. My android phone doensn't have IR. And actually, I read your comment and that's exactly what i was trying to do when this happened. I was trying to just turn the monitor off. I dont know why the power button would change the input. I can try to investigate this IR method, but I'm pretty bummed! I hope there's another solution out there.
It seems like your best bet would be to track down someone who has an android phone and get the IR reciever. To my knowledge (and I've spent quite a bit of time on this godforsaken thing), there is no real way to change the input like that. I suggest continuing to try the input button until it makes its way back to HDMI.
Also keep in mind that universal remotes exist and I'm sure you can get one to work with this.
These tvs are really starting to leave a sour taste in my mouth despite how elusive they are. I guess I'm just greatful to have one because it seems to be a pain to replace it. We are at two confirmed cases of these damned things changing settings beyond our control. I'd advise for whoever reads this and has one of these things. Invest in a way to access the menus whether it be a universal remote or smartphone! I can't wait to have time once more so I can make a detailed manual for these things.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
speaking of retropie, heres another thing. When I press the reset button (hooked up to the pi of course) it changes the signal to the pi. So maybe there's something to it? The reset button is just hooked up to the "run" terminals. This may be a solution.
Also, I am really sad, I just noticed a stuck pixle on my lcd . I cannot unsee it now...
Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
I'll look into a universal remote. Seems like the easiest solution.. May also contact the Gamestop manager, maybe he's dealt with this before. Whenever I try to switch the input off of USB, this is what I get. But, I hooked my laptop up to it and it still recognizes it as a second display monitor, so I'm not sure what it's doing.
The damn thing makes no sense. Hoping I can get this resolved sooner rather than later, I was just about to get a RetroPie for it!
Do you have something plugged into the USB on the tv?
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I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
IR RecieverL: https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-R...
Im finding it difficult to belive these tvs would have survived years at gamestops across the country if this was an issue. These things werent turned off with the button by gamestop employees. Im sure they flipped a breaker, a wall power switch or just unplugged them when the store was closed for the evening.
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Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
So I just tried that, and it does.. something. It recognizes that the Pi is being reset, and the screen flashes, but then goes immediately back to that menu screen. And on top of that, after I hold down the power button to get the screen to go black, it wont turn off at all afterwards. So it's like it's trying to display the input but can't? So maybe my issue isn't that it's on the wrong output, it maybe it just confused and can't output?? And no, Han2, I don't have the USB plugged into anything. In fact, It displays the menu screen when I have nothing plugged in at all.
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I cannot stress enough how important it is to press the power button until the TV is off (No LCD picture or visible backlight) before shutting down the unit. I mentioned this Lynx board problem a couple of days ago in this thread. HEAD MY WARNING DAMMIT! I am afraid that something goofy will happen because people are not properly shutting these TVs down. I'm also afraid that not properly shutting down is what is killing the audio in these kiosks.
IR RecieverL: https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Receiver-Extender-Extension-...
Im finding it difficult to belive these tvs would have survived years at gamestops across the country if this was an issue. These things werent turned off with the button by gamestop employees. Im sure they flipped a breaker, a wall power switch or just unplugged them when the store was closed for the evening.
Mine left it on overnight lol. They would never turn it off. Regardless, its better to do it that way, mainly because it can run any close processes and cleanly shut down so that you don't get the same problems like this. The issue I had with brightness settings was caused by flipping the breaker...
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Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
So I just tried that, and it does.. something. It recognizes that the Pi is being reset, and the screen flashes, but then goes immediately back to that menu screen. And on top of that, after I hold down the power button to get the screen to go black, it wont turn off at all afterwards. So it's like it's trying to display the input but can't? So maybe my issue isn't that it's on the wrong output, it maybe it just confused and can't output?? And no, Han2, I don't have the USB plugged into anything. In fact, It displays the menu screen when I have nothing plugged in at all.
Just for giggles and such, unplug the ethernet plug that connects the io to the tv. maybe one of the buttons is broken?
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Okay, update.. If I turn off the monitor, and then hold down the power button for 10 seconds, the screen comes back on, black, as if it's waiting for an input. I then plug in a source to it (borrowed my friends' Raspberry Pi), and the screen flashes as if it recognizes it, then pushes back to that same menu screen. I tried using the kiosk's Reset button, but it doesn't do anything. I even tried plugging the USB input into the Pi but that didn't affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something? Sorry to hear about your dead pixel! Did you ever see this same menu screen on your kiosk? I'm hoping it's not an error screen, and is just a "I have nothing else to display" screen.
The reset button will not do anything without being hooked up to the raspberry pi. Connect the two places marked "run" to reset it while on the black screen. it can be anything so long as its metal in order to make a temporary connection.
I soldered terminals where the run thing is, from there I could plug the wii u kiosk reset button to work as an actual reset button.
So I just tried that, and it does.. something. It recognizes that the Pi is being reset, and the screen flashes, but then goes immediately back to that menu screen. And on top of that, after I hold down the power button to get the screen to go black, it wont turn off at all afterwards. So it's like it's trying to display the input but can't? So maybe my issue isn't that it's on the wrong output, it maybe it just confused and can't output?? And no, Han2, I don't have the USB plugged into anything. In fact, It displays the menu screen when I have nothing plugged in at all.
Just for giggles and such, unplug the ethernet plug that connects the io to the tv. maybe one of the buttons is broken?
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
You dont need a security kit to do that unless... Did they screw in your monitor bezel?
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
You dont need a security kit to do that unless... Did they screw in your monitor bezel?
I'm stumped. How do I access the monitor inputs? the bezel seems pretty tightly secured down with a round bolt
I may have to get back to you on that. I am planning to go pick up a T20 security bit tomorrow evening so I can open up the back. As of now I don't actually have access to the monitor itself, as far as I'm aware. I'm not overly hardware savvy so thanks for walking me through all this stuff. I don't even actually know how to access the monitor, so hoping it's not too difficult.
You dont need a security kit to do that unless... Did they screw in your monitor bezel?
I'm stumped. How do I access the monitor inputs? the bezel seems pretty tightly secured down with a round bolt
the bezzle is secure and tight, then it is screwed in for some reason. on the back of the kiosk, on the rightmost and leftmost edge of the back, you should see 4 screws, two on each side. If they are not populated (you just see holes where screws should be) then you can remove the bezzle. Do this by lifting up and toward you on the bezzle part.
Round bolts on the back? I don't think anyone here has reported their bezzles being screwed in yet...
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I'm stumped. How do I access the monitor inputs? the bezel seems pretty tightly secured down with a round bolt
the bezzle is secure and tight, then it is screwed in for some reason. on the back of the kiosk, on the rightmost and leftmost edge of the back, you should see 4 screws, two on each side. If they are not populated (you just see holes where screws should be) then you can remove the bezzle. Do this by lifting up and toward you on the bezzle part.
Round bolts on the back? I don't think anyone here has reported their bezzles being screwed in yet...
Sorry, I meant the painted round bolt on the side (see photo). Maybe that can stay there. I do have the screw holes populated, and it does indeed seem like I need that security bit to get it off, unless something is going way over my head here. Here's a shot of what I'm looking at.
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Sorry, I meant the painted round bolt on the side (see photo). Maybe that can stay there. I do have the screw holes populated, and it does indeed seem like I need that security bit to get it off, unless something is going way over my head here. Here's a shot of what I'm looking at.
Well shit, that thing is screwed in. I'll be damned. Alright, I guess you are going to need to get a security bit lol. I would recommend just getting a whole security bit set, I use mine all the time because this is the kind of projects I do. Harbor frieght has some good deals. Be sure to get back to us on this issue so we can document a solution.
Good luck!
I wanted to add about another modification I made to my Kiosk. I swapped the original power strip for this one here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HTQAK8/ref=oh_aui_deta...
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
Here ya go, I put a self tapping screw into the metal uprights and hung it on them in the back. Saves space on the shelves and just reach back and power down the lights and fan with ease.
Round bolts on the back? I don't think anyone here has reported their bezzles being screwed in yet...
My kiosk came with all 4 security screws in place.
Harbor Freight has a set of security bits for cheap.
I wanted to add about another modification I made to my Kiosk. I swapped the original power strip for this one here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HTQAK8/ref=oh_aui_deta...
It has separate on off switches for each outlet, this way I can kill the fan and lights without powering down the whole system. I just keep the TV, Console, and Gamepad Charger on power all of the time. It's a little bit bigger than the original but I've been pleased with it so far.
Oh yeah, I also installed one of those cabinet door magnets onto the door so that I don't have to use a key to open the door. Works nicely, especially since I don't have the key
Can you post a photo of the fit? That looks a lot bigger than the original!
Here ya go, I put a self tapping screw into the metal uprights and hung it on them in the back. Saves space on the shelves and just reach back and power down the lights and fan with ease.
I might put a second power strip right in the same place. I havent decided whats going inside my cabinet yet other than "some retro consoles" Probably a pi as well. There is tons of room in there once you get the power and LED wires out of the way.