What do you have in mind. If its just a modification to the gamepad plug I made and uploaded it to thingiverse, consider it done .just give me the measurement in mm of your wire's diameters. If that's what you mean and thats what I think you mean. I do have plans to make custom wiimote plugs on another note. Also, I almost got another kiosk yesterday, a gamestop called me and asked if I wanted one in the same condition as mine. Turned it down and my friend got it, will post the kiosk info when i get it
I have no idea yet. I have been looking for a photo of the stress relief bit on the back of a demo gamepad with the battery cover removed to get ideas but havent found one yet. I have half a mind to reach out to the guy with the $400 gamepad w/cable and buy his. I havent since his starting price is so outlandish I doubt we would be able to reach a price that made us both happy.
My cable is an RF cable so far. I need to buy some cables and then find the right connectors to plug in on either side. I havent been able to do this yet. It wont be thick at all. Probably thinner than the stock wire. The curl can be added with a rod and heat gun.
What do you have in mind. If its just a modification to the gamepad plug I made and uploaded it to thingiverse, consider it done .just give me the measurement in mm of your wire's diameters. If that's what you mean and thats what I think you mean. I do have plans to make custom wiimote plugs on another note. Also, I almost got another kiosk yesterday, a gamestop called me and asked if I wanted one in the same condition as mine. Turned it down and my friend got it, will post the kiosk info when i get it
I have no idea yet. I have been looking for a photo of the stress relief bit on the back of a demo gamepad with the battery cover removed to get ideas but havent found one yet. I have half a mind to reach out to the guy with the $400 gamepad w/cable and buy his. I havent since his starting price is so outlandish I doubt we would be able to reach a price that made us both happy.
My cable is an RF cable so far. I need to buy some cables and then find the right connectors to plug in on either side. I havent been able to do this yet. It wont be thick at all. Probably thinner than the stock wire. The curl can be added with a rod and heat gun.
Here ya go, I took these before they cut the gamepad
Here ya go, I took these before they cut the gamepad
Great photos! There are also two places for screws inside the battery cover that appear to hold the cable. Thats what I was most curious about. I am thinking it is a piece of metal to recreate some kind of bracket to hold the cables in place. My gamepad didnt come with a wire at all, not even a cut one.
Excited I might get my Bezel today So I can go TV Shopping later this afternoon, Anyone get their hands on the exact demensions for the Monitor? I forgot to add I did swap the Black Topper for a White one I had gotten my hands on when the Wii U was first released. I think it looks better Since theres no black anywhere else on the Kiosk and I will probably pickup a Standard white Unit for the kiosk later when i run into one cheap.
Looks great man! I have both the Wii and the Wii U kiosks, and they look amazing beside each other!
I agree, They are a pretty Nice set! Congrats to you too imanerd011!
Im really hoping I can grab a monitor this time around that is alot more apealing, I have a Silver Vizio that I am looking forward to mounting on my Wii Kiosk But I am so glad that the Wii U Bezel ateast covers it so it wont be too much of an eyesore for whatever I can find on the cheap to pickup. But I want to get one as close to the Demensions of the original as possible. Anyone got the demensions to the monitor?
Think I got the list up-to-date. If I missed you or got something wrong, please let me know.
Originally posted by: Otraotaku
I really appreciate that dewisp02 was so quick to gather the community together to Keep track of the whereabouts of these Demo units. Oh and... Thanks again for supplying me with mine Thanks!
No problem, man. It went to a good home.
Originally posted by: Otraotaku
Originally posted by: imanerd0011
Looks great man! I have both the Wii and the Wii U kiosks, and they look amazing beside each other!
Anyone got the demensions to the monitor?
The dimensions you need can be measured on the monitor mounting bracket you have. Measure the distance between one side and the other side piece of the bracket. You want a 32" TV/monitor with thinner bezel sides, otherwise the bezel will get in the way and you will have to decase the TV/monitor. Concerning the depth, IIRC, the monitor mounts slightly higher than the depth of the mounting bracket depth (slight overhang), which would be about 2-3" total depth. I suggest getting a 1080p resolution, but can't blame you using anything less if you find a cheap one. I've noticed the newer the TV/monitor, the more likely it will "drop-in" without issues since they conserve space depth- and width- wise.
Originally posted by: Ryan93L
I was so excited to pick the one up from a nearby Gamestop i had my name on, but when the time came they had literally stripped it of anything electronic. TV, speakers, switches, everything.....
Do you have one? If so, congrats and please post the info so I can add you to the list.
What do you have in mind. If its just a modification to the gamepad plug I made and uploaded it to thingiverse, consider it done .just give me the measurement in mm of your wire's diameters. If that's what you mean and thats what I think you mean. I do have plans to make custom wiimote plugs on another note. Also, I almost got another kiosk yesterday, a gamestop called me and asked if I wanted one in the same condition as mine. Turned it down and my friend got it, will post the kiosk info when i get it
I have no idea yet. I have been looking for a photo of the stress relief bit on the back of a demo gamepad with the battery cover removed to get ideas but havent found one yet. I have half a mind to reach out to the guy with the $400 gamepad w/cable and buy his. I havent since his starting price is so outlandish I doubt we would be able to reach a price that made us both happy.
My cable is an RF cable so far. I need to buy some cables and then find the right connectors to plug in on either side. I havent been able to do this yet. It wont be thick at all. Probably thinner than the stock wire. The curl can be added with a rod and heat gun.
Here ya go, I took these before they cut the gamepad
I have still a complete gamepad if anyone needs any particular pictures. Just let me know.
Also albeit rare- the Wii green/white Wii U dev gamepad should work with a kiosk model as it uses the same screw type coax connection. Still haven't found a kiosk console to test this theory yet.
I have still a complete gamepad if anyone needs any particular pictures. Just let me know. Also albeit rare- the Wii green/white Wii U dev gamepad should work with a kiosk model as it uses the same screw type coax connection. Still haven't found a kiosk console to test this theory yet.
What does it look like underneath the battery cover? I see two places for screws which arent on mine. I figure that holds a bracket which keeps things in place.
Think I got the list up-to-date. If I missed you or got something wrong, please let me know.
Originally posted by: Otraotaku
I really appreciate that dewisp02 was so quick to gather the community together to Keep track of the whereabouts of these Demo units. Oh and... Thanks again for supplying me with mine Thanks!
No problem, man. It went to a good home.
Originally posted by: Otraotaku
Originally posted by: imanerd0011
Looks great man! I have both the Wii and the Wii U kiosks, and they look amazing beside each other!
Anyone got the demensions to the monitor?
The dimensions you need can be measured on the monitor mounting bracket you have. Measure the distance between one side and the other side piece of the bracket. You want a 32" TV/monitor with thinner bezel sides, otherwise the bezel will get in the way and you will have to decase the TV/monitor. Concerning the depth, IIRC, the monitor mounts slightly higher than the depth of the mounting bracket depth (slight overhang), which would be about 2-3" total depth. I suggest getting a 1080p resolution, but can't blame you using anything less if you find a cheap one. I've noticed the newer the TV/monitor, the more likely it will "drop-in" without issues since they conserve space depth- and width- wise.
Originally posted by: Ryan93L
I was so excited to pick the one up from a nearby Gamestop i had my name on, but when the time came they had literally stripped it of anything electronic. TV, speakers, switches, everything.....
Do you have one? If so, congrats and please post the info so I can add you to the list.
Is there a speific model of TV that works with minimal customizations, or changes? I'd like to find one for mine soon but I want it to fit as good as possible with little alterations if possible.
Is there a speific model of TV that works with minimal customizations, or changes? I'd like to find one for mine soon but I want it to fit as good as possible with little alterations if possible.
I posted links for a very good low budget monitor and mount that work and fit perfectly with minimal alterations. There have been so many Wii U kiosk threads, that I'm not sure where it went, but I will look for it. It might be this thread, but there were at least two other kiosk related threads that I've posted in.
Well, I started working on my Wii U kiosk. I've replaced the lock with a new one that I have a key for. I've removed the controller wires that were cut by GameStop (but I still kept them) and I installed a new TV. This TV has the same outer dimensions as the original, but it's a much larger screen due to the lack of the bezel. The nice thing about using this TV over the original monitor is that it will be easier to hook up other devices to use the setup as a normal TV in my garage.
I received my Raspberry Pi this week and got it setup. I have't loaded all of the games I want yet, but I have enough to be able to enjoy it.
Next step will be to cover the area below the TV that is open due to the missing bezel. I plan to cover it with a board with some speakers that will be powered by a small amp that I will hide in the cabinet.
The last step will be to make my custom Raspberry Pi case out of an old Nintendo Wii U that I acquired. The Wii U is broken beyond repair, so I will gut it and use the case to house my Raspberry Pi. I'm hoping to incorporate the USB ports, HDMI ports and other connections on the Wii U case with the Pi itself.
It's been a fun project so far. Looking forward to the finished product.
Originally posted by: SNESNESCUBE64
How did you mount that monster?
Pretty straight forward. I bought a mount from Wal-Mart (super cheap too) and attached it to the top cross beam on the kiosk frame. I had to use a few washers as spacers to move the TV outwards a fraction of an inch, but otherwise, the TV could not have fit any better.
Both the TV and mount are meant for a low budget since this is only a project and the kiosk will stay in my garage.
link to TV (was $150 when I bought it, now it's $180, glad I didn't wait any longer)
TV is cheap, but it has a "game mode" and works well with the Raspberry Pi with no noticable lag on Mario platforming games.
Has anyone figured out the pin out for the wired controllers? I'm getting ready to hard wire one of these suckers and I wanna see if anyone did it first so that maybe I can get an idea of what I'm doing beforehand. If nobody knows, then I'm going to make a daughterboard for controller box that basically makes it so that the nunchuck connects directly to the wiimote, the benefit of this is that I can do whatever pin out I want. I haven't opened mine up yet, but if it is anything based on what I saw on ebay, it will be a piece of cake. Its just figuring out which pin does what.
The neat thing is that the nunchuck only uses 4 wires, power, ground, and two data lines. So it is going to very simple. The real kicker is going to be the wiimote itself. I am assuming that they pulled the connector out and then just soldered the power and ground to the battery terminals, its just a matter of, do I have to make my own board for the controller box. I'm also wondering whether the wiimotes that the kiosk contains actually are not capable of wireless, similar to the gamepad and its wireless BS.
If you guys know, can you let me know, I know its a shot in the dark and I'm starting to head into unknown territory, but there's a pretty good reward for this.
Has anyone figured out the pin out for the wired controllers? I'm getting ready to hard wire one of these suckers and I wanna see if anyone did it first so that maybe I can get an idea of what I'm doing beforehand. If nobody knows, then I'm going to make a daughterboard for controller box that basically makes it so that the nunchuck connects directly to the wiimote, the benefit of this is that I can do whatever pin out I want. I haven't opened mine up yet, but if it is anything based on what I saw on ebay, it will be a piece of cake. Its just figuring out which pin does what.
The neat thing is that the nunchuck only uses 4 wires, power, ground, and two data lines. So it is going to very simple. The real kicker is going to be the wiimote itself. I am assuming that they pulled the connector out and then just soldered the power and ground to the battery terminals, its just a matter of, do I have to make my own board for the controller box. I'm also wondering whether the wiimotes that the kiosk contains actually are not capable of wireless, similar to the gamepad and its wireless BS.
If you guys know, can you let me know, I know its a shot in the dark and I'm starting to head into unknown territory, but there's a pretty good reward for this.
Thanks
Ive got houseguests this week but if youre not in a hurry I'll try to take mine apart and get some close up photos next week.
Has anyone figured out the pin out for the wired controllers? I'm getting ready to hard wire one of these suckers and I wanna see if anyone did it first so that maybe I can get an idea of what I'm doing beforehand. If nobody knows, then I'm going to make a daughterboard for controller box that basically makes it so that the nunchuck connects directly to the wiimote, the benefit of this is that I can do whatever pin out I want. I haven't opened mine up yet, but if it is anything based on what I saw on ebay, it will be a piece of cake. Its just figuring out which pin does what.
The neat thing is that the nunchuck only uses 4 wires, power, ground, and two data lines. So it is going to very simple. The real kicker is going to be the wiimote itself. I am assuming that they pulled the connector out and then just soldered the power and ground to the battery terminals, its just a matter of, do I have to make my own board for the controller box. I'm also wondering whether the wiimotes that the kiosk contains actually are not capable of wireless, similar to the gamepad and its wireless BS.
If you guys know, can you let me know, I know its a shot in the dark and I'm starting to head into unknown territory, but there's a pretty good reward for this. Thanks
Ive got houseguests this week but if youre not in a hurry I'll try to take mine apart and get some close up photos next week.
If I had demo controllers, I would disassemble and make pinout charts [but sadly I do not :'( ].
Ive got houseguests this week but if youre not in a hurry I'll try to take mine apart and get some close up photos next week.
I'm in no hurry at all . Odds are I won't be able to get started until next week anyway. It really helps to have a close up look at what they are supposed to be, just by seeing different color wires tells a whole story and maybe I won't have to do more mods to get this crap to work. Just dont take it apart if you have to damage it, I would rather guess than damage someone else'e stuff. If this ends up working out, I will post a guide on how to make wired controllers from normal retail remotes.
I'm moving back home at the end of the week and I promised one of my friends that I would help him do the same audio mod. Basically, one of the gamestops from back home called me last weekish so instead of getting a second kiosk, I called him and now he has one. I'll get him to post his info at some point soon as he said he was going to make an NA account. This kind of puts my current work on it on hold with my kiosk, I got some design documents for how I'm going to do a daughterboard if I have to. In a sense, if I make a daughterboard, I will only have to keep track of 4 wires with the nunchuck, the hardest part is going to be powering the wiimote, as I don't think you can power it through the pin connector.
I just used a regular slotted screwdriver with a lot of pressure. They were so loose to begin with it didn't matter much that I didn't have the right driver. I would check that first before spending money on specialty drivers. However, if they are tight, don't force it with the wrong bit. You could strip them that way.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts.
The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Also, I added you to the list, but am missing some info, so please let me know how the missing info.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts.
The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Thanks. I saw the talk about the DC adapter. I was trying to find a way to power the lights without having the actual Lynx LED controller. Is there some sort of similar box or wiring that I can plug into that will do the same thing as the LED controller?
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts. The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Thanks. I saw the talk about the DC adapter. I was trying to find a way to power the lights without having the actual Lynx LED controller. Is there some sort of similar box or wiring that I can plug into that will do the same thing as the LED controller?
You could cut off the connectors on the strips, splice them together, and then to the power adapter. I would put a resistor and switch between the strips and the power adapter.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts. The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Thanks. I saw the talk about the DC adapter. I was trying to find a way to power the lights without having the actual Lynx LED controller. Is there some sort of similar box or wiring that I can plug into that will do the same thing as the LED controller?
You could cut off the connectors on the strips, splice them together, and then to the power adapter. I would put a resistor and switch between the strips and the power adapter.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel.
It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel. It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
The cost of original parts has cooled since they first hit the market and I think the price will still drop some more over time. SNESNESCUBE is exactly right with making your own. You can either find the female connector to accept the strip connectors or just cut off the connector and solder the wires straight to your board. The male connectors (which are linked to a parts source in this thread thanks to I believe Han2) are standard and can be rebought and installed if you ever want to install the orginial Lynx power distribution/controller box. I believe there are pictures of the pcb in the thread as well to help if you need a visual aide.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel. It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
The cost of original parts has cooled since they first hit the market and I think the price will still drop some more over time. SNESNESCUBE is exactly right with making your own. You can either find the female connector to accept the strip connectors or just cut off the connector and solder the wires straight to your board. The male connectors (which are linked to a parts source in this thread thanks to I believe Han2) are standard and can be rebought and installed if you ever want to install the orginial Lynx power distribution/controller box. I believe there are pictures of the pcb in the thread as well to help if you need a visual aide.
Thank you so much. I really apprecaite the information you and SNESNESCUBE64 gave me. I'm in no big hurry to get the LED lights hooked up yet, as I would like to focus on finding a replacement monitor and Wii U system first. I guess I'll just monitor the price of the Lynx controller and decide the best course of action when I get to that point.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel. It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
The cost of original parts has cooled since they first hit the market and I think the price will still drop some more over time. SNESNESCUBE is exactly right with making your own. You can either find the female connector to accept the strip connectors or just cut off the connector and solder the wires straight to your board. The male connectors (which are linked to a parts source in this thread thanks to I believe Han2) are standard and can be rebought and installed if you ever want to install the orginial Lynx power distribution/controller box. I believe there are pictures of the pcb in the thread as well to help if you need a visual aide.
Thank you so much. I really apprecaite the information you and SNESNESCUBE64 gave me. I'm in no big hurry to get the LED lights hooked up yet, as I would like to focus on finding a replacement monitor and Wii U system first. I guess I'll just monitor the price of the Lynx controller and decide the best course of action when I get to that point.
No problem. There is also info in this thread about a TV known to work (Vizio). I hear slim-bezeled 32" Samsung TVs work as well. Most people seem to mount the TV to the kiosk mounting bracket by drilling holes and bolting the TV to it. I personally do not want to physically damage the kiosk to keep it as stock as possible. But I do have an original monitor with a broken/cracked LCD module. Working on a solution, but not looking good without buying an entire panel.
Comments
What do you have in mind. If its just a modification to the gamepad plug I made and uploaded it to thingiverse, consider it done .just give me the measurement in mm of your wire's diameters. If that's what you mean and thats what I think you mean. I do have plans to make custom wiimote plugs on another note. Also, I almost got another kiosk yesterday, a gamestop called me and asked if I wanted one in the same condition as mine. Turned it down and my friend got it, will post the kiosk info when i get it
I have no idea yet. I have been looking for a photo of the stress relief bit on the back of a demo gamepad with the battery cover removed to get ideas but havent found one yet. I have half a mind to reach out to the guy with the $400 gamepad w/cable and buy his. I havent since his starting price is so outlandish I doubt we would be able to reach a price that made us both happy.
My cable is an RF cable so far. I need to buy some cables and then find the right connectors to plug in on either side. I havent been able to do this yet. It wont be thick at all. Probably thinner than the stock wire. The curl can be added with a rod and heat gun.
What do you have in mind. If its just a modification to the gamepad plug I made and uploaded it to thingiverse, consider it done .just give me the measurement in mm of your wire's diameters. If that's what you mean and thats what I think you mean. I do have plans to make custom wiimote plugs on another note. Also, I almost got another kiosk yesterday, a gamestop called me and asked if I wanted one in the same condition as mine. Turned it down and my friend got it, will post the kiosk info when i get it
I have no idea yet. I have been looking for a photo of the stress relief bit on the back of a demo gamepad with the battery cover removed to get ideas but havent found one yet. I have half a mind to reach out to the guy with the $400 gamepad w/cable and buy his. I havent since his starting price is so outlandish I doubt we would be able to reach a price that made us both happy.
My cable is an RF cable so far. I need to buy some cables and then find the right connectors to plug in on either side. I havent been able to do this yet. It wont be thick at all. Probably thinner than the stock wire. The curl can be added with a rod and heat gun.
Here ya go, I took these before they cut the gamepad
Here ya go, I took these before they cut the gamepad
Great photos! There are also two places for screws inside the battery cover that appear to hold the cable. Thats what I was most curious about. I am thinking it is a piece of metal to recreate some kind of bracket to hold the cables in place. My gamepad didnt come with a wire at all, not even a cut one.
Here's my unit as it stands currently.
Looks great man! I have both the Wii and the Wii U kiosks, and they look amazing beside each other!
I agree, They are a pretty Nice set! Congrats to you too imanerd011!
Im really hoping I can grab a monitor this time around that is alot more apealing, I have a Silver Vizio that I am looking forward to mounting on my Wii Kiosk But I am so glad that the Wii U Bezel ateast covers it so it wont be too much of an eyesore for whatever I can find on the cheap to pickup. But I want to get one as close to the Demensions of the original as possible. Anyone got the demensions to the monitor?
I really appreciate that dewisp02 was so quick to gather the community together to Keep track of the whereabouts of these Demo units. Oh and... Thanks again for supplying me with mine Thanks!
No problem, man. It went to a good home.
Looks great man! I have both the Wii and the Wii U kiosks, and they look amazing beside each other!
Anyone got the demensions to the monitor?
The dimensions you need can be measured on the monitor mounting bracket you have. Measure the distance between one side and the other side piece of the bracket. You want a 32" TV/monitor with thinner bezel sides, otherwise the bezel will get in the way and you will have to decase the TV/monitor. Concerning the depth, IIRC, the monitor mounts slightly higher than the depth of the mounting bracket depth (slight overhang), which would be about 2-3" total depth. I suggest getting a 1080p resolution, but can't blame you using anything less if you find a cheap one. I've noticed the newer the TV/monitor, the more likely it will "drop-in" without issues since they conserve space depth- and width- wise.
I was so excited to pick the one up from a nearby Gamestop i had my name on, but when the time came they had literally stripped it of anything electronic. TV, speakers, switches, everything.....
Do you have one? If so, congrats and please post the info so I can add you to the list.
What do you have in mind. If its just a modification to the gamepad plug I made and uploaded it to thingiverse, consider it done .just give me the measurement in mm of your wire's diameters. If that's what you mean and thats what I think you mean. I do have plans to make custom wiimote plugs on another note. Also, I almost got another kiosk yesterday, a gamestop called me and asked if I wanted one in the same condition as mine. Turned it down and my friend got it, will post the kiosk info when i get it
I have no idea yet. I have been looking for a photo of the stress relief bit on the back of a demo gamepad with the battery cover removed to get ideas but havent found one yet. I have half a mind to reach out to the guy with the $400 gamepad w/cable and buy his. I havent since his starting price is so outlandish I doubt we would be able to reach a price that made us both happy.
My cable is an RF cable so far. I need to buy some cables and then find the right connectors to plug in on either side. I havent been able to do this yet. It wont be thick at all. Probably thinner than the stock wire. The curl can be added with a rod and heat gun.
Here ya go, I took these before they cut the gamepad
I have still a complete gamepad if anyone needs any particular pictures. Just let me know.
Also albeit rare- the Wii green/white Wii U dev gamepad should work with a kiosk model as it uses the same screw type coax connection. Still haven't found a kiosk console to test this theory yet.
I have still a complete gamepad if anyone needs any particular pictures. Just let me know. Also albeit rare- the Wii green/white Wii U dev gamepad should work with a kiosk model as it uses the same screw type coax connection. Still haven't found a kiosk console to test this theory yet.
What does it look like underneath the battery cover? I see two places for screws which arent on mine. I figure that holds a bracket which keeps things in place.
Think I got the list up-to-date. If I missed you or got something wrong, please let me know.
I really appreciate that dewisp02 was so quick to gather the community together to Keep track of the whereabouts of these Demo units. Oh and... Thanks again for supplying me with mine Thanks!
No problem, man. It went to a good home.
Looks great man! I have both the Wii and the Wii U kiosks, and they look amazing beside each other!
Anyone got the demensions to the monitor?
The dimensions you need can be measured on the monitor mounting bracket you have. Measure the distance between one side and the other side piece of the bracket. You want a 32" TV/monitor with thinner bezel sides, otherwise the bezel will get in the way and you will have to decase the TV/monitor. Concerning the depth, IIRC, the monitor mounts slightly higher than the depth of the mounting bracket depth (slight overhang), which would be about 2-3" total depth. I suggest getting a 1080p resolution, but can't blame you using anything less if you find a cheap one. I've noticed the newer the TV/monitor, the more likely it will "drop-in" without issues since they conserve space depth- and width- wise.
I was so excited to pick the one up from a nearby Gamestop i had my name on, but when the time came they had literally stripped it of anything electronic. TV, speakers, switches, everything.....
Do you have one? If so, congrats and please post the info so I can add you to the list.
Is there a speific model of TV that works with minimal customizations, or changes? I'd like to find one for mine soon but I want it to fit as good as possible with little alterations if possible.
Is there a speific model of TV that works with minimal customizations, or changes? I'd like to find one for mine soon but I want it to fit as good as possible with little alterations if possible.
I posted links for a very good low budget monitor and mount that work and fit perfectly with minimal alterations. There have been so many Wii U kiosk threads, that I'm not sure where it went, but I will look for it. It might be this thread, but there were at least two other kiosk related threads that I've posted in.
***EDIT*** See below.
Originally posted by: TDIRunner
Well, I started working on my Wii U kiosk. I've replaced the lock with a new one that I have a key for. I've removed the controller wires that were cut by GameStop (but I still kept them) and I installed a new TV. This TV has the same outer dimensions as the original, but it's a much larger screen due to the lack of the bezel. The nice thing about using this TV over the original monitor is that it will be easier to hook up other devices to use the setup as a normal TV in my garage.
I received my Raspberry Pi this week and got it setup. I have't loaded all of the games I want yet, but I have enough to be able to enjoy it.
Next step will be to cover the area below the TV that is open due to the missing bezel. I plan to cover it with a board with some speakers that will be powered by a small amp that I will hide in the cabinet.
The last step will be to make my custom Raspberry Pi case out of an old Nintendo Wii U that I acquired. The Wii U is broken beyond repair, so I will gut it and use the case to house my Raspberry Pi. I'm hoping to incorporate the USB ports, HDMI ports and other connections on the Wii U case with the Pi itself.
It's been a fun project so far. Looking forward to the finished product.
How did you mount that monster?
Pretty straight forward. I bought a mount from Wal-Mart (super cheap too) and attached it to the top cross beam on the kiosk frame. I had to use a few washers as spacers to move the TV outwards a fraction of an inch, but otherwise, the TV could not have fit any better.
Both the TV and mount are meant for a low budget since this is only a project and the kiosk will stay in my garage.
link to TV (was $150 when I bought it, now it's $180, glad I didn't wait any longer)
TV is cheap, but it has a "game mode" and works well with the Raspberry Pi with no noticable lag on Mario platforming games.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insig...
link to mount ($10 and comes with HDMI cord)
I would not recommend this mount on a normal wall, but with it bolted to the kiosk, it's actually the perfect size (and price)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/451622...
Ok, it wasn't as hard to find as I thought it might be.
The neat thing is that the nunchuck only uses 4 wires, power, ground, and two data lines. So it is going to very simple. The real kicker is going to be the wiimote itself. I am assuming that they pulled the connector out and then just soldered the power and ground to the battery terminals, its just a matter of, do I have to make my own board for the controller box. I'm also wondering whether the wiimotes that the kiosk contains actually are not capable of wireless, similar to the gamepad and its wireless BS.
If you guys know, can you let me know, I know its a shot in the dark and I'm starting to head into unknown territory, but there's a pretty good reward for this.
Thanks
Has anyone figured out the pin out for the wired controllers? I'm getting ready to hard wire one of these suckers and I wanna see if anyone did it first so that maybe I can get an idea of what I'm doing beforehand. If nobody knows, then I'm going to make a daughterboard for controller box that basically makes it so that the nunchuck connects directly to the wiimote, the benefit of this is that I can do whatever pin out I want. I haven't opened mine up yet, but if it is anything based on what I saw on ebay, it will be a piece of cake. Its just figuring out which pin does what.
The neat thing is that the nunchuck only uses 4 wires, power, ground, and two data lines. So it is going to very simple. The real kicker is going to be the wiimote itself. I am assuming that they pulled the connector out and then just soldered the power and ground to the battery terminals, its just a matter of, do I have to make my own board for the controller box. I'm also wondering whether the wiimotes that the kiosk contains actually are not capable of wireless, similar to the gamepad and its wireless BS.
If you guys know, can you let me know, I know its a shot in the dark and I'm starting to head into unknown territory, but there's a pretty good reward for this.
Thanks
Ive got houseguests this week but if youre not in a hurry I'll try to take mine apart and get some close up photos next week.
Has anyone figured out the pin out for the wired controllers? I'm getting ready to hard wire one of these suckers and I wanna see if anyone did it first so that maybe I can get an idea of what I'm doing beforehand. If nobody knows, then I'm going to make a daughterboard for controller box that basically makes it so that the nunchuck connects directly to the wiimote, the benefit of this is that I can do whatever pin out I want. I haven't opened mine up yet, but if it is anything based on what I saw on ebay, it will be a piece of cake. Its just figuring out which pin does what.
The neat thing is that the nunchuck only uses 4 wires, power, ground, and two data lines. So it is going to very simple. The real kicker is going to be the wiimote itself. I am assuming that they pulled the connector out and then just soldered the power and ground to the battery terminals, its just a matter of, do I have to make my own board for the controller box. I'm also wondering whether the wiimotes that the kiosk contains actually are not capable of wireless, similar to the gamepad and its wireless BS.
If you guys know, can you let me know, I know its a shot in the dark and I'm starting to head into unknown territory, but there's a pretty good reward for this. Thanks
Ive got houseguests this week but if youre not in a hurry I'll try to take mine apart and get some close up photos next week.
If I had demo controllers, I would disassemble and make pinout charts [but sadly I do not :'( ].
...
Ive got houseguests this week but if youre not in a hurry I'll try to take mine apart and get some close up photos next week.
I'm in no hurry at all . Odds are I won't be able to get started until next week anyway. It really helps to have a close up look at what they are supposed to be, just by seeing different color wires tells a whole story and maybe I won't have to do more mods to get this crap to work. Just dont take it apart if you have to damage it, I would rather guess than damage someone else'e stuff. If this ends up working out, I will post a guide on how to make wired controllers from normal retail remotes.
I'm moving back home at the end of the week and I promised one of my friends that I would help him do the same audio mod. Basically, one of the gamestops from back home called me last weekish so instead of getting a second kiosk, I called him and now he has one. I'll get him to post his info at some point soon as he said he was going to make an NA account. This kind of puts my current work on it on hold with my kiosk, I got some design documents for how I'm going to do a daughterboard if I have to. In a sense, if I make a daughterboard, I will only have to keep track of 4 wires with the nunchuck, the hardest part is going to be powering the wiimote, as I don't think you can power it through the pin connector.
Hey guys, any idea the size triangle screwdriver bit you need to remove the nunchuck and wiimote cords? Any idea if one of these is the right size?
https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill...
I just used a regular slotted screwdriver with a lot of pressure. They were so loose to begin with it didn't matter much that I didn't have the right driver. I would check that first before spending money on specialty drivers. However, if they are tight, don't force it with the wrong bit. You could strip them that way.
Think I got the list up-to-date. If I missed you or got something wrong, please let me know.
I posted the missing info for my kiosk, but it may have been missed.
security key: N
subwoofer: Y
wrench: N
back sign: N
papers: N
demo disc: N
Also, here is my serial number, which I finally got around to taking a picture of.
Think I got the list up-to-date. If I missed you or got something wrong, please let me know.
I posted the missing info for my kiosk, but it may have been missed.
security key: N
subwoofer: Y
wrench: N
back sign: N
papers: N
demo disc: N
Totalled missed it. Just updated your info. Thanks for reminding me
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts.
The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Also, I added you to the list, but am missing some info, so please let me know how the missing info.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts.
The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Thanks. I saw the talk about the DC adapter. I was trying to find a way to power the lights without having the actual Lynx LED controller. Is there some sort of similar box or wiring that I can plug into that will do the same thing as the LED controller?
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts. The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Thanks. I saw the talk about the DC adapter. I was trying to find a way to power the lights without having the actual Lynx LED controller. Is there some sort of similar box or wiring that I can plug into that will do the same thing as the LED controller?
You could cut off the connectors on the strips, splice them together, and then to the power adapter. I would put a resistor and switch between the strips and the power adapter.
My amazing wife found me a Wii U kiosk last night out by the Gamestop dumpster when she went to the grocery store. Overall it's in pretty good shape and most of the hardware is all there. The monitor was gone and all the power cables inside, along with the top LED sign, but the subwoofer was still in there.
I'm OK with replacing the monitor and trying to find a replacement sign for on top. I was wondering if there is any cheap way to power the LED strips without trying to find the Lynx LED controller? I tried searching the thread, but didn't really see anything. Also, if someone could help with information about hooking up and powering the subwoofer as well, I would really apprecaite it.
It was posted and talked about several times in the thread, but its a pain to find anything when a thread has a lot of posts. The Lynx adapter provided in the kiosk is a 12V 5A tip positive barrel plug (not sure of the exact I.D. and O.D.) DC adapter. I know you can use 3A (if powering just the lights) because that is amperage of the adapter I modded for my 1st kiosk. Could prolly use a 1-1.5A adapter if just powering the led strips. You can use 9V, but the LED strips just wont be as bright as intended.
Thanks. I saw the talk about the DC adapter. I was trying to find a way to power the lights without having the actual Lynx LED controller. Is there some sort of similar box or wiring that I can plug into that will do the same thing as the LED controller?
You could cut off the connectors on the strips, splice them together, and then to the power adapter. I would put a resistor and switch between the strips and the power adapter.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel.
It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel. It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
The cost of original parts has cooled since they first hit the market and I think the price will still drop some more over time. SNESNESCUBE is exactly right with making your own. You can either find the female connector to accept the strip connectors or just cut off the connector and solder the wires straight to your board. The male connectors (which are linked to a parts source in this thread thanks to I believe Han2) are standard and can be rebought and installed if you ever want to install the orginial Lynx power distribution/controller box. I believe there are pictures of the pcb in the thread as well to help if you need a visual aide.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel. It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
The cost of original parts has cooled since they first hit the market and I think the price will still drop some more over time. SNESNESCUBE is exactly right with making your own. You can either find the female connector to accept the strip connectors or just cut off the connector and solder the wires straight to your board. The male connectors (which are linked to a parts source in this thread thanks to I believe Han2) are standard and can be rebought and installed if you ever want to install the orginial Lynx power distribution/controller box. I believe there are pictures of the pcb in the thread as well to help if you need a visual aide.
Thank you so much. I really apprecaite the information you and SNESNESCUBE64 gave me. I'm in no big hurry to get the LED lights hooked up yet, as I would like to focus on finding a replacement monitor and Wii U system first. I guess I'll just monitor the price of the Lynx controller and decide the best course of action when I get to that point.
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I was hoping there would be a pretty simple, ready made solution. I would like to try and keep the cables original and together, so I would rather not splice them. I suppose I could build a board that I could plug them into and power, but with my limited knowledge along with the time and effort plus the cost of parts, it will probably just be easier to just spend the money on the controller.
Took the words out of my mouth (build a board). Basically all the lynx box is, is a way of distributing power. Just get some breadboard and make your own traces that way. Just get the terminals and hook them all up in parallel. It would be much cheaper to just make it as opposed to buying one.
The cost of original parts has cooled since they first hit the market and I think the price will still drop some more over time. SNESNESCUBE is exactly right with making your own. You can either find the female connector to accept the strip connectors or just cut off the connector and solder the wires straight to your board. The male connectors (which are linked to a parts source in this thread thanks to I believe Han2) are standard and can be rebought and installed if you ever want to install the orginial Lynx power distribution/controller box. I believe there are pictures of the pcb in the thread as well to help if you need a visual aide.
Thank you so much. I really apprecaite the information you and SNESNESCUBE64 gave me. I'm in no big hurry to get the LED lights hooked up yet, as I would like to focus on finding a replacement monitor and Wii U system first. I guess I'll just monitor the price of the Lynx controller and decide the best course of action when I get to that point.
No problem. There is also info in this thread about a TV known to work (Vizio). I hear slim-bezeled 32" Samsung TVs work as well. Most people seem to mount the TV to the kiosk mounting bracket by drilling holes and bolting the TV to it. I personally do not want to physically damage the kiosk to keep it as stock as possible. But I do have an original monitor with a broken/cracked LCD module. Working on a solution, but not looking good without buying an entire panel.
Thanks again Dewisp02