Sorry OP, we totally hijacked this thread. I like my AVS becuase I can hear the extra sound channels on my Famicom Castlevania III. Love the music in that game.
^ I hate using brasso because the smell burns into my nostrils and sticks there.
It's hard to describe, but it smells like when you get your nose busted, and you smell the iron from your blood and it doesn't go away. If that makes sense.
Well ventilated area or not, whenever I use any chemical cleaners I always use a mask. Use one and worry no more!
^ I hate using brasso because the smell burns into my nostrils and sticks there.
It's hard to describe, but it smells like when you get your nose busted, and you smell the iron from your blood and it doesn't go away. If that makes sense.
Well ventilated area or not, whenever I use any chemical cleaners I always use a mask. Use one and worry no more! Good luck OP!
Just take your NES apart and give it a really good cleaning. Get a toothbrush and some brasso and scrub those contacts. I've been able to fix every NES I have come across this way unless it had a fried chip somewhere.
I clean it thouroghly with 99% rubbing alcohol afterwards. C'mon man, I'm not a newb.
But you were giving advice to one. Only a noob would ask this question. So it's best to give the whole process. I for one have never seen anyone specify about cleaning Brasso off after using it. I'm glad it has been explained ITT.
I personally only use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what I will do when I finish off this bottle I bought years ago. They don't sell it any more.
But if I hadn't learned this way way back when, and heard advice "clean with Brasso" (and that's about the end of it) as I have seen many times, I might not know to use another fluid to remove residue afterwards.
Just take your NES apart and give it a really good cleaning. Get a toothbrush and some brasso and scrub those contacts. I've been able to fix every NES I have come across this way unless it had a fried chip somewhere.
I clean it thouroghly with 99% rubbing alcohol afterwards. C'mon man, I'm not a newb.
But you were giving advice to one. Only a noob would ask this question. So it's best to give the whole process. I for one have never seen anyone specify about cleaning Brasso off after using it. I'm glad it has been explained ITT.
I personally only use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what I will do when I finish off this bottle I bought years ago. They don't sell it any more.
They still have giant bottles of 99% IPA at Fry's and Micro Center in Atlanta area.
I think there's a running confusion about using Brasso to clean game contacts.
The people who say you shouldn't use it when in response to someone who does, seem to think people use it on a regular basis to continuously clean their games. But it is not usually the case though (I will get to the "not usually" part in a bit). Actually, most people who use Brasso properly will use it initially only one time when they first acquire an especially dirty game that alcohol cannot sufficiently clean to working order. Its used sparingly and gently, then cleaned off with Iso alcohol before playing and that WILL BE IT for ever needing Brasso again on that game. For the most part aside from particular games where the gold finish of the contacts might have already been severely worn off this is perfectly safe. I have personally done this for years and all my games still work perfectly.
As for the "not usually" thing, sadly there are some misinformed people out there that somehow got the notion that its OK to use Brasso on a regular basis to clean the same games over and over with. THAT is the big no-no. I have actually bought game lots several times in the past and when I opened the games for inspection/cleaning there was caked up amounts of Brasso on the contacts. Usually mortiified, I quickly clean them off with Iso and believe it or not they all still worked so far. Honestly I think you have to use a ton of Brasso recurring over long periods of time to kill these games.
As for the topic of cleaning 72 pin connectors, I've tried several methods and what I find works best for me is to first bend up the pins to original tension position, then clean with Brasso and then Iso on an old toothbrush. After that I will scrub with dish washing liquid then rinse thoroughly with hot water until they look shiny and new and that seems to always do the trick. I tried just boiling them but it has not realy worked in my case. Might get the games to load a bit more often but it never gets it back to a "first time every time" working state like my method does.
Unfortunately, Brasso is almost never suggested with that information/advice. There are several big YouTubers and game gurus telling all their followers to “simply” clean with Brasso. A local game shop here was cleaning every single cartridge based game that came in with Brasso before she closed down. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve heard that advice offered and yet I’ve never seen it offered with the additional advice of cleaning it off with something else and only using it for an initial cleaning. Since it is an abrasive I would only resort to it if I had tried absolutely everything else non-abrasive. I have had games that would not work reliably with repeated cleanings using 99.9% electronics cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol which were completely reliable after using alternate methods. Heck, I’ve had a few where no amount of cotton swabs would work but simply switching to a 1-Up Card made an immediate, night and day, difference.
Unfortunately, this video perpetuates a couple falsehoods that are even more annoying to me than people suggesting Brasso.
First, he needs to tell people not to use an official cleaning kit if they ever bend the pins up such that it will work without pushing down. It will grab and mangle them. There is a good chance that someone troubleshooting a possible connection issue might have and try one.
Next, boiling doesn’t work simply be removing the dirt and grime that have built up. It primarily works by making the bottom row warp and arch upward, which tightens the connector and puts more pressure on the pins. I have no idea why no one else seems to notice this. Just toss an original in and boil it for twice as long at maximum temperature to see for yourself! It’s obvious.
Finally, the problem with getting the carriage to latch down is not from having the screws too tight. Most people come to that logical conclusion during troubleshooting when they realize that it works before they screw it down but not after, but it’s actually caused by a lip that is supposed to go underneath the motherboard (carraige hooks onto the front edge). To tuck the lip you may have to lift the motherboard up slightly from where it sits in the bottom shell before you drop it back down into position, which he clearly did not do in the video. Alternatively, you can position it on the board before you start reconnecting cables and drop it in the lower half.
But if I hadn't learned this way way back when, and heard advice "clean with Brasso" (and that's about the end of it) as I have seen many times, I might not know to use another fluid to remove residue afterwards.
My fluids always leave residue... Wait, what were we talking about again?
I think there's a running confusion about using Brasso to clean game contacts.
The people who say you shouldn't use it when in response to someone who does, seem to think people use it on a regular basis to continuously clean their games. But it is not usually the case though (I will get to the "not usually" part in a bit). Actually, most people who use Brasso properly will use it initially only one time when they first acquire an especially dirty game that alcohol cannot sufficiently clean to working order. Its used sparingly and gently, then cleaned off with Iso alcohol before playing and that WILL BE IT for ever needing Brasso again on that game. For the most part aside from particular games where the gold finish of the contacts might have already been severely worn off this is perfectly safe. I have personally done this for years and all my games still work perfectly.
As for the "not usually" thing, sadly there are some misinformed people out there that somehow got the notion that its OK to use Brasso on a regular basis to clean the same games over and over with. THAT is the big no-no. I have actually bought game lots several times in the past and when I opened the games for inspection/cleaning there was caked up amounts of Brasso on the contacts. Usually mortiified, I quickly clean them off with Iso and believe it or not they all still worked so far. Honestly I think you have to use a ton of Brasso recurring over long periods of time to kill these games.
As for the topic of cleaning 72 pin connectors, I've tried several methods and what I find works best for me is to first bend up the pins to original tension position, then clean with Brasso and then Iso on an old toothbrush. After that I will scrub with dish washing liquid then rinse thoroughly with hot water until they look shiny and new and that seems to always do the trick. I tried just boiling them but it has not realy worked in my case. Might get the games to load a bit more often but it never gets it back to a "first time every time" working state like my method does.
Unfortunately, Brasso is almost never suggested with that information/advice. There are several big YouTubers and game gurus telling all their followers to “simply” clean with Brasso. A local game shop here was cleaning every single cartridge based game that came in with Brasso before she closed down. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve heard that advice offered and yet I’ve never seen it offered with the additional advice of cleaning it off with something else and only using it for an initial cleaning. Since it is an abrasive I would only resort to it if I had tried absolutely everything else non-abrasive. I have had games that would not work reliably with repeated cleanings using 99.9% electronics cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol which were completely reliable after using alternate methods. Heck, I’ve had a few where no amount of cotton swabs would work but simply switching to a 1-Up Card made an immediate, night and day, difference.
I guess it depends on who you've heard talking about it. Most people I've heard suggesting Brasso as a cleaning option also say be sure and clean it off well with Iso alcohol after scrubbing with the Brasso. But yeah, you're right in that there are people who only use the Brasso and call it done, which was what I was referring to in my post. Its just an unfortunate confusion going around about what's right to do when using it, and I think what leads to people saying to NEVER use it because they are in response to people who use it improperly. Honestly to me its a common sense thing. I wouldn't want to leave any perceivable residue of metal polish on the pin connectors. Its the whole "wax on, wax off" thing.
Comments
Absolutely.
I will admit if I didn't have an interest in some of the unique things the AVS does that NES doesn't do, I'd probably get the HDMI kit.
^ I hate using brasso because the smell burns into my nostrils and sticks there.
It's hard to describe, but it smells like when you get your nose busted, and you smell the iron from your blood and it doesn't go away. If that makes sense.
Well ventilated area or not, whenever I use any chemical cleaners I always use a mask. Use one and worry no more!
Good luck OP!
^ I hate using brasso because the smell burns into my nostrils and sticks there.
It's hard to describe, but it smells like when you get your nose busted, and you smell the iron from your blood and it doesn't go away. If that makes sense.
Well ventilated area or not, whenever I use any chemical cleaners I always use a mask. Use one and worry no more! Good luck OP!
I do wear masks, but it still gets up in there.
do you guys wear masks when playing as well? right?
Just take your NES apart and give it a really good cleaning. Get a toothbrush and some brasso and scrub those contacts. I've been able to fix every NES I have come across this way unless it had a fried chip somewhere.
Lord Voultar would like a word with you.
https://twitter.com/voultar/status/977736151166484480?s=21
Well I don't leave the brasso in it. Geez.....
I clean it thouroghly with 99% rubbing alcohol afterwards. C'mon man, I'm not a newb.
But you were giving advice to one. Only a noob would ask this question. So it's best to give the whole process. I for one have never seen anyone specify about cleaning Brasso off after using it. I'm glad it has been explained ITT.
I personally only use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what I will do when I finish off this bottle I bought years ago. They don't sell it any more.
Just take your NES apart and give it a really good cleaning. Get a toothbrush and some brasso and scrub those contacts. I've been able to fix every NES I have come across this way unless it had a fried chip somewhere.
Lord Voultar would like a word with you.
https://twitter.com/voultar/status/977736151166484480?s=21
Well I don't leave the brasso in it. Geez.....
I clean it thouroghly with 99% rubbing alcohol afterwards. C'mon man, I'm not a newb.
But you were giving advice to one. Only a noob would ask this question. So it's best to give the whole process. I for one have never seen anyone specify about cleaning Brasso off after using it. I'm glad it has been explained ITT.
I personally only use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what I will do when I finish off this bottle I bought years ago. They don't sell it any more.
They still have giant bottles of 99% IPA at Fry's and Micro Center in Atlanta area.
< They still have giant bottles of 99% IPA at Fry's and Micro Center in Atlanta area.
I keep telling you guys, beer makes a terrible cleansing agent! It gets all sticky
Seriously though, thanks for the tip. I used to get it at the drug store. We don't have Fry's here but I'll check Microcenter.
I think there's a running confusion about using Brasso to clean game contacts.
The people who say you shouldn't use it when in response to someone who does, seem to think people use it on a regular basis to continuously clean their games. But it is not usually the case though (I will get to the "not usually" part in a bit). Actually, most people who use Brasso properly will use it initially only one time when they first acquire an especially dirty game that alcohol cannot sufficiently clean to working order. Its used sparingly and gently, then cleaned off with Iso alcohol before playing and that WILL BE IT for ever needing Brasso again on that game. For the most part aside from particular games where the gold finish of the contacts might have already been severely worn off this is perfectly safe. I have personally done this for years and all my games still work perfectly.
As for the "not usually" thing, sadly there are some misinformed people out there that somehow got the notion that its OK to use Brasso on a regular basis to clean the same games over and over with. THAT is the big no-no. I have actually bought game lots several times in the past and when I opened the games for inspection/cleaning there was caked up amounts of Brasso on the contacts. Usually mortiified, I quickly clean them off with Iso and believe it or not they all still worked so far. Honestly I think you have to use a ton of Brasso recurring over long periods of time to kill these games.
As for the topic of cleaning 72 pin connectors, I've tried several methods and what I find works best for me is to first bend up the pins to original tension position, then clean with Brasso and then Iso on an old toothbrush. After that I will scrub with dish washing liquid then rinse thoroughly with hot water until they look shiny and new and that seems to always do the trick. I tried just boiling them but it has not realy worked in my case. Might get the games to load a bit more often but it never gets it back to a "first time every time" working state like my method does.
Unfortunately, Brasso is almost never suggested with that information/advice. There are several big YouTubers and game gurus telling all their followers to “simply” clean with Brasso. A local game shop here was cleaning every single cartridge based game that came in with Brasso before she closed down. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve heard that advice offered and yet I’ve never seen it offered with the additional advice of cleaning it off with something else and only using it for an initial cleaning. Since it is an abrasive I would only resort to it if I had tried absolutely everything else non-abrasive. I have had games that would not work reliably with repeated cleanings using 99.9% electronics cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol which were completely reliable after using alternate methods. Heck, I’ve had a few where no amount of cotton swabs would work but simply switching to a 1-Up Card made an immediate, night and day, difference.
Boil the pins.
Unfortunately, this video perpetuates a couple falsehoods that are even more annoying to me than people suggesting Brasso.
First, he needs to tell people not to use an official cleaning kit if they ever bend the pins up such that it will work without pushing down. It will grab and mangle them. There is a good chance that someone troubleshooting a possible connection issue might have and try one.
Next, boiling doesn’t work simply be removing the dirt and grime that have built up. It primarily works by making the bottom row warp and arch upward, which tightens the connector and puts more pressure on the pins. I have no idea why no one else seems to notice this. Just toss an original in and boil it for twice as long at maximum temperature to see for yourself! It’s obvious.
Finally, the problem with getting the carriage to latch down is not from having the screws too tight. Most people come to that logical conclusion during troubleshooting when they realize that it works before they screw it down but not after, but it’s actually caused by a lip that is supposed to go underneath the motherboard (carraige hooks onto the front edge). To tuck the lip you may have to lift the motherboard up slightly from where it sits in the bottom shell before you drop it back down into position, which he clearly did not do in the video. Alternatively, you can position it on the board before you start reconnecting cables and drop it in the lower half.
But if I hadn't learned this way way back when, and heard advice "clean with Brasso" (and that's about the end of it) as I have seen many times, I might not know to use another fluid to remove residue afterwards.
My fluids always leave residue... Wait, what were we talking about again?
I think there's a running confusion about using Brasso to clean game contacts.
The people who say you shouldn't use it when in response to someone who does, seem to think people use it on a regular basis to continuously clean their games. But it is not usually the case though (I will get to the "not usually" part in a bit). Actually, most people who use Brasso properly will use it initially only one time when they first acquire an especially dirty game that alcohol cannot sufficiently clean to working order. Its used sparingly and gently, then cleaned off with Iso alcohol before playing and that WILL BE IT for ever needing Brasso again on that game. For the most part aside from particular games where the gold finish of the contacts might have already been severely worn off this is perfectly safe. I have personally done this for years and all my games still work perfectly.
As for the "not usually" thing, sadly there are some misinformed people out there that somehow got the notion that its OK to use Brasso on a regular basis to clean the same games over and over with. THAT is the big no-no. I have actually bought game lots several times in the past and when I opened the games for inspection/cleaning there was caked up amounts of Brasso on the contacts. Usually mortiified, I quickly clean them off with Iso and believe it or not they all still worked so far. Honestly I think you have to use a ton of Brasso recurring over long periods of time to kill these games.
As for the topic of cleaning 72 pin connectors, I've tried several methods and what I find works best for me is to first bend up the pins to original tension position, then clean with Brasso and then Iso on an old toothbrush. After that I will scrub with dish washing liquid then rinse thoroughly with hot water until they look shiny and new and that seems to always do the trick. I tried just boiling them but it has not realy worked in my case. Might get the games to load a bit more often but it never gets it back to a "first time every time" working state like my method does.
Unfortunately, Brasso is almost never suggested with that information/advice. There are several big YouTubers and game gurus telling all their followers to “simply” clean with Brasso. A local game shop here was cleaning every single cartridge based game that came in with Brasso before she closed down. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve heard that advice offered and yet I’ve never seen it offered with the additional advice of cleaning it off with something else and only using it for an initial cleaning. Since it is an abrasive I would only resort to it if I had tried absolutely everything else non-abrasive. I have had games that would not work reliably with repeated cleanings using 99.9% electronics cleaning grade isopropyl alcohol which were completely reliable after using alternate methods. Heck, I’ve had a few where no amount of cotton swabs would work but simply switching to a 1-Up Card made an immediate, night and day, difference.
I guess it depends on who you've heard talking about it. Most people I've heard suggesting Brasso as a cleaning option also say be sure and clean it off well with Iso alcohol after scrubbing with the Brasso. But yeah, you're right in that there are people who only use the Brasso and call it done, which was what I was referring to in my post. Its just an unfortunate confusion going around about what's right to do when using it, and I think what leads to people saying to NEVER use it because they are in response to people who use it improperly. Honestly to me its a common sense thing. I wouldn't want to leave any perceivable residue of metal polish on the pin connectors. Its the whole "wax on, wax off" thing.
you use this?
Why would anyone ever want to use this?!?
To kill their NES of course. Why else?
Of course, but why would anyone want to do that?!?
Because you touch yourself at night tout the HDMI NES too much.
It was a one-off experiment to see if a cart could overload an NES and fry it. It was only used to kill garbage NES boards and a Retron 1.
Well that HD Kit is the best way to play NES games.
Also, that makes much more sense now.
You could really just use a metroid cart to fry an NES though if you use the password "engage ridley mother f***er"