PSA: Original Xbox owners, please spay your systems!

Hi, thought I'd post a quick reminder here for original xbox owners: your system contains a very unreliable component which you should remove from your system as soon as possible!

Today I performed a simple procedure on my two xboxes, to remove the clock capacitors from each. You can see the clock capacitor in the first photo below, its the medium sized one next to a larger one down at the front of the system near the controller ports. This capacitor is intended to store a charge to keep track of the time, but they are cheap and frequently leak and corrode the motherboard, and in any case they no longer work after all this time anyway.

Both of mine had begun to leak, but fortunately I got to them in time and only a small amount of substance had touched the board. I cleaned the residue with a q tip and some alcohol, and you can see the potential for damage if that stays on the board for too long.

The fix is relatively quick and easy if you have some torx screwdrivers (sizes 20 and 10), so please do yourself and your Xbox a favour and grab that cap out!

Comments

  • By the way, while I was inside one of my Xboxes, I found these large caps near the heatsink for the CPU were leaking. Two are clearly leaking, and I have no doubt the third will go soon too.

    Does anybody know a good online store where I can order some quality replacement capacitors? The ones I need are 6.3v 3300uf. Would it be possible to just buy a like for like and replace these, or is there anything else I need to be careful about? Thanks guys.
  • I order my capacitors from mouser.com. If I had to recommend a brand, I really like Nichicon. I would encourage getting 105°C ones and optionally ones that can take a higher voltage. This will put less stress on them. You can always have a higher rated voltage, just not a lower one.
  • Yeah this is really important. Working at a game store, I've seen dozens of dead systems due to that capacitor eating through components and multiple traces. It's no good. Between dead lasers and this issue, it will be very hard finding working systems in the years to come.
  • Hmmm good to know.. I'll have to check mine. Thanks for the info





    Edit: Is it the cap that is label C763 on the attached image?
  • I got the later one with Forza bundle new. Is that the model that doesnt have the bad capacitor?
  • Originally posted by: Pendragonx

    Hmmm good to know.. I'll have to check mine. Thanks for the info





    Edit: Is it the cap that is label C763 on the attached image?





    That is the one, it's actually C7G3. There are two board layouts that I'm aware of for the original xbox, both with the caps in a similar position. The clock caps are circled in the pictures of each board version below.
  • Originally posted by: AsmikAce

    I got the later one with Forza bundle new. Is that the model that doesnt have the bad capacitor?





    According to my info, the only version of the original Xbox which doesn't need to have the clock cap removed is version 1.6. If you wanna check your system version, turn it on without a disc and go to system settings. Look at system info, and after a scroll of text it will show your kernel number. Version 1.6 is 5838. If you see any other number, pick up your torx and get stuck in dude!
  • Originally posted by: OptOut

    Originally posted by: AsmikAce

    I got the later one with Forza bundle new. Is that the model that doesnt have the bad capacitor?





    According to my info, the only version of the original Xbox which doesn't need to have the clock cap removed is version 1.6. If you wanna check your system version, turn it on without a disc and go to system settings. Look at system info, and after a scroll of text it will show your kernel number. Version 1.6 is 5838. If you see any other number, pick up your torx and get stuck in dude!





    My version is 1.6 so i am good.
  • Great info. Thanks OptOut! Crazy to imagine a world where there's a sudden great purge of Original Xbox's, lost to corrosion.
  • Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.
  • Definitely worried about the future of Xbox because of this issue. Whenever I see this come up, there's usually a couple people trying to make an excuse or determine that they don't have the issue somehow without opening the console. It's a bummer.
  • They usually need a lot of other caps replaced so don't stop at the clock cap and call it "done!" Get a full cap kit and go to town.
  • Originally posted by: Boosted52405

    Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.





    Do it dude. Once you've done the first one and you know what to do, doing the others will be even quicker. Basically, there are 6 screws (torx 20) on the outer case and 3 screws (torx 10) inside to remove, plus 4 cables to detach to reveal the motherboard. Once you've done that you can wiggle the cap loose and remove it, and inspect the rest of your caps for any other issues. It is really easy, no true technical skill necessary.
  • Originally posted by: CZroe

    They usually need a lot of other caps replaced so don't stop at the clock cap and call it "done!" Get a full cap kit and go to town.





    True dat! As you can see above, I found 3 that need replacing asap which are already leaking. I have ordered replacements for those 3 caps and will attempt the repair as soon as I get them. I haven't ordered the whole set, however, as this will be my first cap replacement job. I want to see how well I do replacing those 3 before I try and do a full cap job.

    Incidentally, do you know where I can order a full cap kit for an original xbox motherboard? I tried console5 but they don't seem to do an original xbox kit...
  • I caught mine before anything truly bad went wrong with it, but discovered another problem that seems to happen to these a lot. Apparently on some models (perhaps most?), there are some very fine traces that go around the edges of the board (on the bottom) which end up just "rotting" away (oxidation/corrosion without visibly being hit by any leaked electolytic fluid), causing your system to suddenly start powering on automatically and/or ejecting the disc tray when it boots up like this. I've not gotten around to doing the fix on mine, but basically you need some very, very fine gauge wire to run jumpers from the affected traces to the vias where they originally routed to--not for the faint of heart (the traces are around 1mm or less as I recall and the wire being akin to thread). My system was kept out of sunlight, was never damp or wet, always kept cool (never placed on carpet, used in temperature controlled settings, etc.), so it's not a matter of me not taking care of it and there aren't any components near the traces in question that have gone bad to apparently have caused the issue.
  • Originally posted by: Boosted52405

    Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.




    Exactly same situation here. Hope my screwdrivers get here soon!
  • Originally posted by: OptOut

     
    Originally posted by: Boosted52405



    Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.







    Do it dude. Once you've done the first one and you know what to do, doing the others will be even quicker. Basically, there are 6 screws (torx 20) on the outer case and 3 screws (torx 10) inside to remove, plus 4 cables to detach to reveal the motherboard. Once you've done that you can wiggle the cap loose and remove it, and inspect the rest of your caps for any other issues. It is really easy, no true technical skill necessary.

    Thank you for the info.  Back in the day I tore several of these open, which isn't too bad, I guess I had assumed there would be soldering involved.  So for that medium-sized clock capacitor you can just wiggle it up and out?  And for replacing...do the new ones require soldering to ask?  I would love to replace all my caps in a few good working systems.



     
  • Originally posted by: PuppyWaffles

     
    Originally posted by: Boosted52405



    Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.







    Exactly same situation here. Hope my screwdrivers get here soon!



    Automotive store would have them too; Torx 10 and 20 are standard sizes for some tail lights.

     
  • Originally posted by: captmorgandrinker

    Originally posted by: PuppyWaffles

     
    Originally posted by: Boosted52405



    Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.







    Exactly same situation here. Hope my screwdrivers get here soon!



    Automotive store would have them too; Torx 10 and 20 are standard sizes for some tail lights.

     




    Yeah I bought a full set on Amazon for $10. They are used but made by Craftsman so I figured it was a better deal.
  • Originally posted by: Boosted52405

    Originally posted by: OptOut

     
    Originally posted by: Boosted52405



    Hmm...would hate for something to happen to my Ltd Mtn Dew one...plus I have a stack of regular ones...interesting.







    Do it dude. Once you've done the first one and you know what to do, doing the others will be even quicker. Basically, there are 6 screws (torx 20) on the outer case and 3 screws (torx 10) inside to remove, plus 4 cables to detach to reveal the motherboard. Once you've done that you can wiggle the cap loose and remove it, and inspect the rest of your caps for any other issues. It is really easy, no true technical skill necessary.

    Thank you for the info.  Back in the day I tore several of these open, which isn't too bad, I guess I had assumed there would be soldering involved.  So for that medium-sized clock capacitor you can just wiggle it up and out?  And for replacing...do the new ones require soldering to ask?  I would love to replace all my caps in a few good working systems.



     





    It is unnecessary to replace the clock cap itself once removed, as long as you don't mind living without an Xbox that can tell the time. Any other cap you remove will have to be replaced though, which would require soldering. So I suggest to just start by removing the clock cap and getting that out the way, and then you can have a look at your other caps and decide if you think they need replacing yet.
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